Food writer William Rice, in his new book "The Steak Lover's Cookbook," says, "Steak is back on the table because it tastes good." Big city steak houses are popping up everywhere, and people stand in line to devour steaks large enough to feed families of eight in Tibet.

    During the '50s, meat and potatoes epitomized the eating habits of Americans. Favorite steak houses, open only for dinner, offered short menus of steak, lobster and salad. More informal than the traditional white-tablecloth-style restaurants, a dinner house was likely to have an English pub or colonial American decor. Institutions Magazine christened the look "Meat and Potatoes Tudor."

    When Americans began expressing a desire to cut fat and cholesterol from their diets, red meat started losing sales to poultry. However, in 1992, reports the National Cattlemen's Beef Association, consumption of beef in America began an upward trend, particularly among those dining out. Restaurant traffic at casual and upscale steak houses rose 41.6 percent between 1993 and 1996. Today, beef is consumed 76 million times daily across America, with some 16.9 billion pounds of beef products devoured annually.

    Since 1994, more than 1,000 steak houses have opened across the country. San Diego is riding the trend with eateries such as Ruth's Chris Steak House, which opened in November 1994 in the former Anthony's Harborside location on North Harbor Drive. Its owner, Ruth Fertel, newly divorced, got her start by mortgaging her home for $18,000 to buy Chris' Steak House in New Orleans in 1965. Now operating 58 Ruth's Chris locations, she's become a legend in her own time.

    San Diego-based Paragon Steakhouse Restaurants Inc. is seeking its cut of the business, operating several types of steak houses that use different names to appeal to various audiences. Paragon's meatiest, Carvers Steaks & Chops, has 11 locations, one in San Diego operating from a former Hungry Hunter restaurant on Bernardo Plaza Drive in Rancho Bernardo. Paragon's Hungry Hunter restaurants in Mission Valley and Oceanside have re-branded themselves as Hunter Steak Houses, becoming a bit more casual and slightly less pricey.

    The Claim Jumper has four locations in the San Diego area - Carlsbad, Carmel Mountain, La Mesa and Temecula. Almost everyone walks out with "doggie bags" because of the huge portions - even the chocolate cakes are six layers high.

    Outback Steakhouses, a chain of moderately priced eateries with a sort of Crocodile Dundee motif, opened its first in 1988 and today operates more than 350 restaurants. Start your "tucker" off with a "bloomin' onion" and order steaks that are "fair dinkum." The "no rules-just right" vitality and brashness of this Aussie-style chain make for a lively dining experience. Open solely for dinner, Outbacks on Clairemont Mesa Boulevard, in El Cajon on Jamacha Road, in La Mesa on Lake Murray Boulevard, or in Poway on Pomerado Road, are a tasty way to visit "down under."

    Morton's of Chicago opens April 26 at 285 J Street in the tony Harbor Club condominium complex, Downtown. Morton's, which today has 35 locations, opened its Chicago flagship restaurant at 1050 North State St. in 1978. Besides the trademark huge, prime, aged, hand-cut meats and chops, which customers cut with Morton's signature rosewood-handled knives (you can buy a set of six for $55), the restaurant will feature 40 varieties of martinis said to be as smooth as Sinatra's voice - the only one you will hear while dining.

    A San Diego institution and way ahead of the latest trend, the venerable Bully's, has been around since 1967 when the La Jolla location opened its doors. Bully's now has three San Diego locations - La Jolla, Del Mar and Mission Valley - plus one in Carmel. Stuart Anderson's Black Angus, with eight San Diego locations, has been around for almost as long. Its first local restaurant, on Kearny Villa Road, began serving 27 years ago.

    More good choices for getting that "beef fix" are Kenny's Steak Pub in the Gaslamp Quarter, the venerable Rainwater's on Kettner Boulevard Downtown, Red Tracton's in Del Mar, Kelly's Steak House and Albie's Beef Inn in Mission Valley, Pinnacle Peak Steakhouse in Santee, Saska's in Mission Beach and Dalton's Original Roadhouse in San Marcos.

    No matter where you go in the greater San Diego area, a juicy, succulent, fork-tender, charred, sizzling and mouth-watering porterhouse, T-bone, filet mignon or sirloin steak can be yours, for a price.

***

    Holding its grand opening April 5 and 6 in the La Jolla Colony shopping mall on Regents Road is EspressoNET, where eight bucks will get you an hour of Internet connection time to go with your java. The restaurant promises coffee and espresso drinks as well as an extensive selection of muffins, pastries, sandwiches, soups and salads.

***

    The Harbor's Edge Restaurant at the Sheraton San Diego Hotel & Marina is in the midst of its spring Winemaker's Dinners. The next one is scheduled for April 18 and will feature the wines of Arrowwood. The price of the six-course meal overseen by Chef Scott Skomal and winery representatives is $50 a pop. Call 692-2255 for reservations.

***

    How smart. Einstein Bros Bagels, which bought Baltimore Bagel Co. and is renaming the 12 San Diego locations, opened its first new location last month in Mission Village's Stonecrest Plaza in Mission Valley.

***

    With its third anniversary behind it, Cerveceria Santa Fe has turned its attention to lunch-time deliveries. Located at the corner of India and C streets Downtown, where the trolley enters One America Plaza, the restaurant is sending employers weekly menu sheets. When a minimum of 25 people sign up (prices are $4 and $5), Cerveceria comes out and sets up a small buffet.

***

    The 18th semi-annual "Taste of Uptown and Sidewalk Sale" is set for April 19, 11 a.m. to $3 p.m. Tickets are $15. Call 272-4463 for more information.

***

    Catering to the pre-theater dining crowd, California Cuisine in Hillcrest is offering a special three-course dinner from 5-7 p.m. priced at $25 per person.

***

    Tony's Lounge, an Ocean Beach stalwart, has a fresh look, thanks to new owner John Small whose other operations include Nick's At The Beach and the 22-year-old Sunshine Company Saloon. Small's makeover of Tony's leans on historical photos from the Ocean Beach Historical Society, speciality martini's, big band sounds, a mahogany arched bar, black leather semi-circular booths and glass block. The photo research and framing was done by the Carpenter Co., custom finishes were selected by Dana Phillips of Phillips Houston Design Associates, and Gary Komo was the designer and builder.

***

    As the new executive chef for Mama's Kitchen, Anne Garger supervises the preparation of some 700 meals a day, with only volunteers to help. No big deal, though. Garger used to feed 1,000 sailors a day as a Navy chef on the U.S.S. Prairie, a destroyer tender. Garger replaces Floyd Gulnick who left to become chef of Kemo Sabe Restaurant.

***

    John Steinkamp has been appointed senior vice president of development at Hotel Managers Group, a new San Diego-based hospitality management company that oversees lodging properties for independent hotel owners and groups. Steinkamp, a 20-year industry veteran, most recently served as vice president/regional director of franchise development for Forte Hotels. Hotel Managers Group, which commenced operations Jan. 1, has eight hotels under contract in four Southwest markets.

***

    The new general manager of the Escondido Brigantine Restaurant is Samuel J. Montgomery. A long-time Brig employee, he joined the corporation in 1987 and most recently was personnel manager for the Old Town restaurant. Montgomery replaces Bryan Chan who is now g.m. of the Coronado Brigantine.

***

    Joe Duncalfe, g.m. of the U.S. Grant, now also holds the title of regional director of operations for Grand Heritage Hotels. His duties include overseeing the Stanley Hotel in Denver and Barnabey's in Los Angeles.

***

    Coffee People, which opened last month in the U.S. Grant, lists 257 coffee drinks on its menu.