Indigestion is charged by God with
enforcing morality on the stomach.

-Victor Hugo

    Brunch is a celebration of food. From the Sybaritic feasting that begins a long afternoon of self indulgence to the quick meals in a paper bag eaten using only one hand, there is a place. A place for every taste - from Afghan to Vietnamese; for every size appetite - from giant buffets to grab and go; for every price range - from over $50 to under a buck. For a set price you can fill your plate to overflowing and come back for seconds and even thirds.

    Sunday brunches in Downtown San Diego, including the San Diego Marriott & Marina, the Hyatt Regency San Diego and the Westgate, all exemplify the reason brunch buffets originated in the first place. They are dazzling displays of culinary artistry in which chefs let their imaginations run freely. All offer the requisite breakfast items, including light and luscious omelets made to precise order, carving stations of beef, pork, turkey, or lamb, chafing dishes filled with entrées, and their own intriguing appetizers, salads and grand finale irresistible desserts. As you begin your gourmet marathon, you might want to remember the words of Miss Piggy: "You should never eat more than you can lift!"

    The Hyatt Regency San Diego features every pastry you can possibly imagine. The smell of Chef Larry's famous spicy barbecued ribs with all of the trimmings will beckon you. The seafood bar includes assorted fresh and marinated choices. A distinctive gazpacho bar offers refreshing cold soup with all the brightly colored garnishes. Champagne, house beer or wine is included. Served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Adults/$23.95 per person. (One Market Place/232-1234.) Free parking with validation.

    The intricately hand-carved iced sculptures and tantalizing aromas are the first things you notice at the buffets of the San Diego Marriott Hotel & Marina. Making a choice from the 14 hot entrées, including roast duck, leg of lamb, or seafood cioppino, is difficult. Tables are overflowing with veggies, pastas, seafood and sushi bars, desserts, and all the champagne or orange juice you can drink. Served from 9 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Adults/$24.95. (333 W. Harbor Drive/234-0259.)

    The Westgate serves an elegant buffet that spreads out over several rooms. For you epicures, partake of the seafood bar, create your salads, watch as the crepes are made, omelets expertly tossed, and roast beef perfectly carved. Sip champagne as you are enticed by this engaging Lucullan feast. Served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Adults/$28.95. (1055 2nd Ave./238-1818.)

    Across the bridge in Coronardo, Le Meridien has been chosen as the winner of the San Diego Restaurant Association's Gold Medallion Award for Best Brunch in San Diego. The brunch is a magnificent display of 180-plus feet of tempting buffet. An exceptional seafood station is brimming with shrimp, crab legs and caviar. Choose salads, hot entrées steaming from chafing dishes, gratin dauphinois potatoes, vegetables and so much more. Finally, treat yourself to traditional French pastries, desserts and crepes made to order. Cost is $28 per person, including champagne, served from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

    In Mission Valley, El Torito combines the existing menu of Southwestern specialities and traditional Mexican cuisine, along with an impressive assortment of pastas, omelets, salads and fresh fruit. The El Torito menudo is served with all the traditional garnishes. Fajitas, enchiladas, sweet corn cakes, Agua fresca and other authentic Mexican dishes always are on hand. Add tacos, rice, beans, fresh fruit and desserts - a true Mexican fiesta. Hours are 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Prices, $9.99 for adults $3.99 for children.

    Rusty Pelican offers a glass of champagne as you choose from three different types of fresh fish. Entrées may include "Backyard Barbecue Salmon," "Cajun Catfish," "Mahi Maliea," "Shark Firepot," and a simple charbroiled fish. Six different chafing dishes provide three fish choices, two vegetarian specials, such as pasta primavera, and beef or poultry. Carving stations of turkey, roast beef or ham, a gigantic fresh fruit display, and a dessert bar, filled with different types of pies, breads, homemade brownies, chocolate mousse, vanilla custard and strawberry trifle complete this brunch. Served from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Adults/$12.95; children/$5.95. Orange juice and coffee are not included.

    The San Diego Marriott La Jolla serves a brunch with both hot and cold cereals, Belgian waffles, assorted breads and pastries, bagels and lox, vegetarian pasta of da, and freshly carved turkey and roast beef. For dessert, the frozen yogurt bar has your choice of 10 different toppings. Served from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Adults/$10.95, Seniors/$8.95, Children/$5.95. (4240 La Jolla Village Drive/587-2172.)

    If the size of the buffet is just too overwhelming, many restaurants offer brunch from a menu where you can just sit and be served.

    Such a brunch is served at The Top of the Market at the Fish Market. Choose from waffles, pancakes or eggs, fluffy omelets filled with crab, shrimp, or veggies. More exotic specialties such as the corn chili crepes also are offered. There are even children's choices. All brunch selections included freshly squeezed orange juice, mimosas, sparkling wine, coffee or tea, and freshly baked pastries served with honey butter. Prices range from $14.50 to $16.50, served from 10 a.m.until 2 p.m.

    California Cafe Bar & Grill, located atop Horton Plaza, features California cuisine with a Mediterranean influence. Umbrella-covered tables invite al fresco dining on the patio while enjoying spectacular city views. All brunch specials are served with assorted freshly baked breakfast breads. Indulge in the "Eggs Chesapeake," poached eggs, crab cakes with a tomato-basil hollandaise ($11.95), lobster and grilled asparagus quiche ($9.95) or turkey hash and poached eggs ($8.95). Weekend dining through the end of August is spiced with afternoon jazz on Sundays from noon to 3 p.m. Guests are welcome to relax and enjoy the fiery rhythms of Yavaz, one of San Diego’s best Latin/jazz ensembles. (California Cafe, 502 Horton Plaza/238-5440. Parking is free with validation.)

    Looking to laissez le bon temps rouler - let the good times roll? Do it Cajun-style at the three-course champagne brunch at Bayou Bar & Grill. Start with seafood gumbo and then sample a crawfish (crayfish is called crawfish in the South) or tasso and cheese omelet. Disparate southern taste treats include "Eggs Bayou" served with crabmeat, shrimp and crawfish, a non-traditional eggs Florentine served with chicken or catfish medallions, or "Eggs Prudhomme," named after the genial genius of massive girth. All egg dishes are served with bayou potatoes and a beignet garnish, a French fritter that is a New Orleans favorite. Bread pudding or crème caramel completes the meal. Unlimited champagne is included in the $12.95 cost. Served from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (Bayou Bar & Grill, 329 Market St., in the Street Gaslamp Quarter/696-8747.)

    Crescent Shores Grill, the newly refurbished American bistro, features a special a la carte brunch menu, offering light breakfast fare along with uniquely prepared main dishes and tempting desserts. The impressive views are from atop the Hotel La Jolla, while you enjoy eggs Benedict made with salmon ($9), omelets with asparagus ($7.50) or with goat cheese and roasted peppers ($8), waffles, French toast and soft smoked chicken pie ($7.50). As you listen to live acoustic jazz by renowned musicians, savor cappuccino cheesecake ($6), crème brûlée flavored with Earl Grey tea ($6) or "Olivier's Chocolate Custard Bread Pudding" ($6). Brunch is served from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (Crescent Shores Grill, 7955 La Jolla Shores Drive/246-0541.)

    For many, many choices, try the dim sum at Jasmine Restaurant. There is no menu. Instead, waiters push carts filled with the freshest cooked items from the kitchen, explaining what they are. When the waiter passes your table, you point to what you want and the waiter serves you. In traditional dim sum restaurants, the baskets are left on the table until you ask for the check, at which time they are cleared and the check is tallied.

    Dim sum are hearty appetizer-size portions of fish, meat, vegetables or even fruits. Most baskets contain three or four portions and are meant to be shared around the table. The types of dim sum served are limited only by the imagination of the chef and the individual taste of the consumer. Come early, because there is always a line, and plan to take your time as the dim sum is paraded out of the kitchen. Individual orders begin at $1.80 for crystal dumplings and egg rolls, $2.80 for shrimp or beef rice rolls. Menu service also is available. (4609 Convoy Street, Suite A/268-0888.)

    Too heavy, too much or just too little time. There are always the freshest bagels from any of the Einstein Brothers locations ... coffee from Diedrich's, the new guys in town, or an Egg McMuffin that debuted in 1972. On a final note, don’t forget the Barona Casino, a great way to gain pounds and lose dollars, for a buffet that is under $5.

    Marilynn Boesky has written about, worked for and eaten at restaurants in San Diego and around the world for 10 years.