Even in an area alive with restaurants, and Italian in particular, Fio's Cucina Italiana is a Gaslamp Quarter standout. Open since 1989, this snazzy looking Downtown eatery offers a host of dining options, including a varied selection of award-winning foods and wines (with good non-alcoholic as well as alcoholic choices) and three distinct dining areas, all great for people watching.

    My favorite is the room off the main entry and lounge, which has bistro-style dining and is separated from a handsome and busy bar area with large, clear-glass panels. Adjacent to this room is a dining area featuring an exhibition kitchen and pizza bar. And off this room is the charming new patio, which is sure to be a hit as winter turns to spring. Live piano music from the lounge can be enjoyed from all three areas. Very cool.

    If you could care less about the layout, the atmosphere, the colorful frescoes on the walls, hand-painted by a local artist, or the Biedermeier-inspired decor, Fio's is well worth going to for the food alone. Everything, except the bread, is made on the premises, and Executive Chef Cameron Innis scours Southern California for the best and freshest products. His reputation for working wonders with seafood and artful plate presentation is well deserved.

    The flash-grilled fresh ahi tuna, recommended by our waiter, Richard — a personable chap from Peru — was both a taste and visual treat. The rare, melt-in-your-mouth ahi was fanned over a mound of saffron risotto and served in a sweet balsamic vinegar glaze with sautéed Swiss chard and roasted red pepper caponata. While offered as a chef's special the night of our visit, Richard says it may soon be added to the regular menu.

    Also recommended, the rack of lamb, is a Fio's signature dish. It’s easy to see why. Marinated in a flavorful blend of olive oil, rosemary and garlic, it comes with mustard mashed potatoes and a julienne of sautéed fresh vegetables, every speck of which quickly disappeared from my husband's plate.

    Our entrées were accompanied by lots of good, crusty, country Italian bread, served with rosemary-garlic butter. Beforehand, we sampled an unusual appetizer that was bursting with flavor: grilled radicchio with goat cheese and prosciutto, served in balsamic vinegar. Goat cheese and balsamic vinegar are a recurring theme at Fio's, along with pine nuts, all of which join golden raisins, mushrooms and mixed baby greens in the "Insalata di Fio's." Delicious. Same goes for the Caesar, a garlic lover's delight.

    Other specialties include lobster ravioli, gourmet pizzas and tutto mare, a black linguine pasta in a spicy marinara sauce with shrimp, calamari, clams and mussels. Richard says the stuffed baby-eggplant appetizers also get raves.

    It’s not hard to see why Fio's was named one of San Diego’s top five restaurants in the 1996 Zagat Survey. In addition to the attributes already mentioned, the pricing is moderate, the portions generous and the service outstanding. When you make your reservation, tell them you want to sit where Richard serves. I’m sure he’ll take good care of you.

    —Linda J. Barkman