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But would Bond recognize one
As evidenced by its resurgent prominence at San Diego’s restaurants and bars, the martini is back. The perfect martini consists of the purest gin, a whiff of dry vermouth and a plump green olive, all served in a chilled crystal glass. No other cocktail has taken on the iconography of the martini. H. L. Mencken proclaimed it, "the only American invention as perfect as a sonnet," while American author Bernard De Voto pronounced it the "supreme American gift to world culture." This is one cocktail with a past. After signing the act repealing Prohibition, Franklin Roosevelt mixed the first legal martini in the White House. The president made history when he plied Stalin with martinis at the 1943 Teheran conference. Nikita Khrushchev even declared the martini "America's lethal weapon." The vodka martini be-came popular in the 1960s as James Bond's cocktail of choice. It was made with three measures of Gordon's gin, one measure of vodka, and a half measure of Kina Lillet, shaken, not stirred and garnished with a lemon peel. Shaken or stirred . . . an ongoing debate. Some say martinis must be stirred, never for more than 20 seconds because shaking melts the ice, weakening the drink. However, shaking gets the drink chilled faster with less dilution. So, the controversy continues. Although purists argue that the classic martini is made with gin, any clear liquor - rum, vodka or tequila - may be used. With the martini's popularity soaring, every bar seems to serve its own signature martinis flavored with apéritifs, cognacs and liqueurs. In the Gaslamp Quarter, drop by the Bitter End on Thursdays between 3 p.m. and closing. That's when you'll find martinis specially priced at $2.75 (regularly $6.75). Taste the signature "Black Martini," made of Stolichnaya Kafya vodka, coffee liqueur and a shot of chilled espresso with a whisk of cream. For something different, try "The Corkscrew," made with Bacardi Select, peach schnapps and vermouth, screwed up and shaken with a lime. Walk down the street to sample Fifth Avenue martinis "Sfuzzi-style:" 15 delightfully decadent, rocket-fueled party potions, guaranteed to start and end your night with a bang. Experience "The Moriarty," a western fireball mix of gin, Tabasco, Worcestershire and horseradish, garnished with green peppers and served with a beer chaser. Hailing from Gotham City, "Batman" is a black and bad combination of gin, dry vermouth and black Sambuca. Don't deny yourself "The Chocolate Martini," a mixture of gin, dark creme de cacao, a splash of Godiva liqueur, served up with a shaved-chocolate rim. The choice between well and premium brands will cost from $4.75 to $7.50. Blue Point Coastal Cuisine in the Gaslamp serves a Dean Martin-style three-ounce martini with vermouth - splashes and whispers on request. The signature martini here is "The Blue Skyy" made with Skyy vodka, Bombay Sapphire gin, a splash of Curacao and a twist ($7). A refreshing change of pace, "The Smokey Cristall" is made with Stoli Cristall and a whisper of Macallan 18-year-old single-malt Scotch ($10). Or sip on "The B&B Blues Chaser," made with gin, vodka and a jumbo olive ($8.50). Morton's of Chicago, newly opened at The Harbor Club, Down-town, features The Martini Club, with drinks grouped according to taste categories. Recipes range from the classic James Bond to the contemporaries like Cajun Martini, Absolut pepper vodka with a hint of jalapeño and "The New Traditionals" - "Dark Crystal," a mix of Stoli Cristall with a splash of Remy Martin VSOP and a lemon twist. After a deft mixing demonstration by black-tie-clad bartenders, perfectly stirred martinis are served in chilled, oversized glasses. The tab for a 10-ounce martini with a striking presentation ranges from $6.25 for call brands to $6.50 for premium labels. The club's only rule is to "sip, savor and enjoy in contented moderation." Mixx in Hillcrest offers the Razztini: Absolut citron vodka, a splash of Chambord, garnished with a lemon twist and fresh raspberry. The glasses sit in a well of ice, keeping drinks perfectly chilled ($5.50). The new Crescent Shores Grill (formerly Elario's) atop Hotel La Jolla serves American bistro cocktails - always shaken, never stirred. Partake of "The Scotland Yard Martini," a favorite of Sherlock Holmes, a blend of Scotch and Drambuie, garnished with a lemon spiral twist ($6). For pure decadence, try the signature "Brown Sugar Martini," a classic made famous by The Rolling Stones. Equal parts of Kahlua and Skyy vodka are blended, chilled and served up with a rim of brown sugar and garnished with a cinnamon-dipped lemon wheel ($6). Milligan's Bar & Grill in La Jolla hosts the infamous 3 M Club on Thursdays, from 4 to 7 p.m. All jumbo martinis are $4 (regularly $6.75). After receiving a membership card and silver martini pin, you can drink your way to "member of distinction" status. Each time you imbibe one of the 16 different martinis, your server will validate your card. When all drinks are signed off, you receive a gold martini pin, a martini glass and your name and quotation on the wall. Free food buffet and piano music provide the ambience to savor the signature "Milligan's Madness," a combination of J&B Scotch, sweet and dry vermouth, cherry and lemon twist. Named after its location, "The La Jolla Martini" combines Christian Brother’s brandy, creme de banana, orange juice, lemon juice and an orange slice. Martini memorabilia? For cocktail-hour listening, Pottery Barn in Fashion Valley sells "Martini Lounge," a CD on the EMI label ($12). For proper bar-hopping attire, The Ascot Shop in La Jolla sells a Robert Talbott tie overflowing with martinis ($85).
-Ogden Nash (1935) *** While its three-day grand opening is set for the second week of May, The Grape, a cool wine bar in the Gaslamp Quarter, is betting that San Diegans will toast the opportunity to sample fine wines by the full or half-glass. Judging by the results since April's soft opening, owner Maria Viscuso expects to pop many a cork. "We are seeing a lot of people over and over again," she says. "It is becoming like a neighborhood bar." Located at 823 Fifth Ave., a few steps up from Fio's and across the street from Ingrid Croce's culinary collection, The Grape is 100 feet deep with a 20-foot artist-painted ceiling. Viscuso, sister of E Street Alley owner Michael Viscuso, had eyed the spot for two years, at one time considering putting in a burger joint with 100 beers. "What I’m trying to do is let people taste and learn about wines," she says. "It is not a pretentious place. Most of the wines are not available at Price Club or Trader Joe's. In most restaurants, if you see them, they are offered by the bottle." To aid her in selecting the right wines, Viscuso consults with Gary Sehnert from the WineSellar & Brasserie. At The Grape, a glass of vino runs anywhere from $4.25 for a '94 Schmidt Sohne kabinett, to $15.25 for a '94 Caymus cabernet sauvignon. A half-glass costs about 60 percent that amount. The less sophisticated can imbibe from a selection of bottled and on-tap beers. And since man cannot live by wine alone, an affordable selection of appetizers and salads can help fill the tummy. *** Taking the new title of rooms executive at the Hyatt Regency San Diego is Tim Flodin, who most recently held the same position at the Denver Hyatt Regency. He replaces Scott Vandenberg who was promoted to g.m. of the Westlake Hyatt Regency. Also at HRSD, Joe Viña has joined as senior sales manager responsible for California corporate sales. He last served as corporate sales manager for the Convention Center Westin Hotel in Santa Clara. Viña replaces Tom Doyle who took a position with the Grand Hyatt in Washington, D.C. *** Sheila Zable, senior sales manager for the Doubletree Hotel San Diego Mission Valley for six years, moves to the Doubletree Carmel Highland Golf & Tennis Resort as director of sales. She replaces Mark Ansteth. *** Katheryn Redmond is the U.S. Grant Hotel's new front office manager For the past four years she had filled the same position at the Atrium Hotel in Irvine. Redmond replaces Larry Link who was promoted to g.m. of Barnaby's in Manhattan Beach. *** Peet's Coffee & Tea, the Berkeley-based outfit that lays claim to originating the specialty coffee trend, has opened in La Jolla in the La Jolla Village Shopping Center. It’s the second Southern California location for Peet's, behind Pasadena. A Hillcrest coffee house starts brewing this summer. Peet's coffee has been singled out as the world's finest by Consumer Reports and Fortune magazines. Marilynn Boesky has written about, worked for and eaten at restaurants in San Diego and around the world for 10 years. (Metropolitan's staff also contributes to this column.) |
