Jared's Restaurant on Harbor Island, with its panoramic view of Downtown San Diego, the airport and Coronado, brings life back to a once well-loved local institution. It is in the old paddleboat that was once home to the Reuben E. Lee.

    The new name, Jared's, is in honor of the owner's son. To be fair, the owner named an appetizer, Shrimp Sarah, for his daughter.

    We got more than dinner at Jared's. We had a grand tour of the entire boat and restaurant, and it’s something to see! It was built as a restaurant in the early '60s, and is not a real boat, though it could have fooled me.

    We were escorted by Jeff Pittrof, general manager, to the Wheel House on the fourth floor of the establishment. It is a private dining room suitable for private parties of two to a dozen. It comes with a fully stocked bar and a private wait staff.

    Taking care of us were husband-and-wife team Bill and Sabryna, married for eight years, and having always worked at the same place as a wait team. You've got to admit, that’s something.

    Sabryna did a beautiful job holding up each cut of meat and describing it as if she were telling us about a diamond necklace once owned by a queen. Bill, smiling and taking in her every word, poured us each a glass of Caymus Savignon Blanc ($27). Jared's has a well-rounded wine list with reasonable prices. The Merlots are an especially good value.

    After the menu presentation we were given time to think over the menu and told to press the button on the intercom (located on a table in the corner) when we were ready for our servers. I just couldn’t do that, so I asked them to come back in 10 minutes. They were right on time.

    We selected salads: the Jared's house salad, which is a quartered head of romaine lettuce topped with Maytag bleu cheese dressing, and the roasted pepper salad ($5.25 each). They were a nice start to our meal. I was extra happy when I was served some delicious olive bread made by Bread and Cie Bakery in Hillcrest. I couldn’t decide between the 20-ounce Rib Chop ($28.95) and the 14-ounce New York ($27.95) so I got the Veal Porterhouse ($23.95). It had great flavor and was cooked just the way I had ordered it: medium-rare. Although I tried to convince him to get the chicken "under brick" ($17.95), my escort had the New York. Of course I tried it too and can report it was very nice, cooked to medium as ordered. Jared's also offers several seafood items accompanied by excellent sauces.

    Jared's has a nice selection of vegetables and potatoes on the side, ranging in cost from between $4.25 and $6.95. Of the many dessert choices, we tried two - the "Three Berry Casserole" ala mode ($4.50) and Jared's signature dessert, "Bananas Diego" (4.95). They are house-made and well executed. I loved them both.

    With the "He" and "She" of already established San Diego steakhouses only minutes away - Morton's and Ruth's Chris - Jared's is picking on some pretty tough competition. And it has the views and menu to do it.

- Terryl Gavre