Sally's restaurant has
the good fortune of having
Stéphane Voitzwinkler running its kitchen

    Sally's restaurant has been featured in several publications including The New York Times and Business Traveler Magazine. Sally's also has received several honors, including selection as one of North America's Top 20 Dining Experiences by Wine Trader Magazine and "readers choice" awards by almost every local magazine in San Diego. These honors all rolled in while Fabrice Poigin reigned as "chief pan handler" for Sally's, which is located on the water side of the Hyatt Regency, San Diego. (Fabrice left his position at Sally's nearly a year ago — he's got big plans of his own.)
     Stepping into Fabrice's shoes (or clogs, I should say) is fellow countryman Stéphane Voitzwinkler. Voitz-winkler is no novice; he worked for several years with Poigin at Sally's (oh, what I would give to be working between those two on the line for just one day) and has been cooking for 14 of his 28 years. He took over officially as executive chef in July. I’ve eaten at Sally's over the years and have always enjoyed it. This was my first time back since Poigin had left.
     We started with an order of Sally's "Best Crab Cakes" and the "Blackened Tuna Seared Rare;" both were $9. The crab cakes were awesome — Maryland blue crab, moist with a nice little crunch on the outside and served with a mighty-fine remoulade sauce. Remoulade is a classic French sauce, a beguiling blend of MAYONNAISE with mustard, capers, chopped gherkins and anchovies. The tuna was equally wonderful in flavor and freshness. It was accompanied by a crab hand roll, which I found to be just a tad bit bland.
     Next we shared a bowl of the "Lobster Bisque," $8. It was just as it should be — rich, smooth, creamy, buttery, lobstery and lovely. It was finished with a float of cognac and a lobster claw. I loved it.
     Then I indulged in the "Oven Braised Mahi Mahi" ($18), while my escort had the "Seafood Paella" ($21). I liked the Paella better and made him trade. He's a good sport, that escort of mine. It was so full of seafood that I had to keep putting chunks of fish and shrimp back on his plate just to get at the rice. It was mildly seasoned with just a whisper of saffron so as not to overpower the flavor the fresh fish. It was a hearty portion and I managed to eat all of it (well, he might have helped a little bit).
     Hemingway is supposed to have said that any man who eats dessert is not drinking enough. Keeping that in mind, I had no cocktail before my dinner, nor any wine with.
     I did eat all my dinner and wouldn't be swimming for at least an hour. I was entitled to dessert. I ordered the "Chocolate Creme Brulee Napoleon." Creme brulee, especially chocolate creme brulee, is almost always a hit with me. It reaches the sublime when slathered between flakey squares of homemade pastry and surrounded with an ever-so-light vanilla sauce. Sorry, Ernest, I'd rather eat my calories any day.
     I imagine those plaques and awards will keep rollin' on in for Sally's. Stéphane Voitzwinkler is, as they say now, "the bomb" (it’s a good thing). As they also say, a restaurant is only as good as its chef. For Sally's, that, too, is a good thing.
     Sally's, is located at One Market Place, Downtown, on the boardwalk behind the Hyatt Regency San Diego, phone 687-6080.

— Terryl Gavre

    John and Martha Culbertson, as almost everybody knows, sold the family operated winery that bore their name in 1991. Well, John and Martha have been very busy since. Their newest venture, Bellefleur, opened last month at the Carlsbad Company Stores specialty retail center, adjacent to the popular Carlsbad flower fields. The 10,000-square-foot Tuscan styled Bellefleur, designed by Graham Downes Design and Architecture, includes a working winery, tasting bar, gift shop and restaurant.
     Executive Chef Thomas Atkins begins his dinner menu with an appetizer category...Ha! The appetizer is foreplay, my friend. The idea is to tease your taste buds...to tantalize and stimulate them for the awaiting pleasures. "Roasted Poblano Chile stuffed with Green Rice, Muenster Cheese and Ranchero Sauce," "Grilled Jumbo Sea Scallops with Maui Onion Risotto," "Pan Roasted Carlsbad Mussels with Sweet Peppers and Andouille Sausage." These beautiful, hearty and generous plates, which range between $6.50 and $8.25, should be categorized as "first course" and by all means should not be skipped over for a salad. I’ve had all three salads: Caesar, mixed green (accented with the now-popular combination of pears, gorgonzola and spicy walnuts) and butterleaf with bleu cheese. All were nice, but salad-schmalad, save them for lunchtime. Let's really eat.
     The entrée category ranges from $9.25 for a "Grilled Swordfish Sandwich" to $19.75 for the "Cumin Roasted Double Cut Pork Chop with a Blackbean Cake and Mango Chutney." I tried the "Oak Grilled New York Pepper Steak with Bleu Cheese Butter" (slather it on, baby) and "Shoestring Potatoes" ($17.25). The steak was expertly grilled to medium-rare, was tender and I don’t even need to remark about the bleu cheese butter. Most of the time it is the side dish that romances me into ordering my entrée, and those naughty little slivers of fried potatoes did not let me down...light, crispy, salty and bad for me. I could ask for nothing more. I also really, really liked the "Pan Seared Sea Bass with Maui Onion Risotto" ($17.50).
     The wine list is very reasonably priced (al-most inexpensive) and offers a nice selection of California wines in addition to their own hand-crafted varietals. Most of the Bellefleur wines are only $4 a glass or try a flight tasting of three different wines for $5.
     I proudly boast that I have eaten every dessert on the list. The Bellefleur Cookie and Candy Sampler not only looks like the cover of Gourmet Magazine, but each and every sweet I tasted was better than the last. I would gently discourage you from the "Ginger-Lemon Meringue Pie" as I found it to be a strange flavor combination. Like going to a Mozart recital and having John Tesh warm up the audience...some classics are better left alone.
     Chef Atkins, a disciple of Bradley Odgen (Lark Creek Inn and One Market in San Francisco) is putting out some plates that look like they belong in a much bigger city than Carlsbad or San Diego. This is sophisticated stuff... the menu reads like a big-city menu. I think that Chef Atkins is having a good time. John and Martha are having a good time. So are their guests.
     Bellefleur Winery and Restaurant is located at 5610 Paseo del Norte, Carlsbad, (760) 603-1919.

— Terryl Gavre