The other day my editor suggested that I have made Fabrice Poigin the object of my affection, culinarily speaking that is. (Yes, I know that is not a word). Well, maybe I have. He's glamorous, he's French and he can cook. What’s wrong with a little school-girl crush?

Fabrice Poigin, pronounced "Poy-shjon," has been putting his distinctive touch on San Diego cuisine for nearly eight years now. In a nutshell, by the age of 22, he already had spent more than six years in the kitchen apprenticing with Jacques Maximin at the Negresco Hotel in Nice, France. He came to San Diego in 1989 on a work visa and took a job at Bagatelle Restaurant in La Jolla. He then spent four and one-half years and earned quite a name for himself as executive chef of Sally's Restaurant at the Hyatt Regency, San Diego. Partnering with local businessman and CPA Mike Valine, he has opened his own well-deserved shop named Vignola (a cherry that grows in Rhone Valley). Vignola is located on 6th Avenue in the Hotel St. James Building in the Downtown Gaslamp Quarter.     The dining room is a perfect size with a beautiful mahogany bar gracing one wall. In the back left-hand corner is a copper-hooded open kitchen — which the chef does not like, by the way — but we Americans love. I plunked myself right down at a table toward the back so that I could watch Fabby (as like to call him behind his back) do his thing. The room feels New Yorkish to me and the crowd is a mix of local foodies, gourmandizing tourists and people in black.     Poigin has opened with a concisely written menu

Joanne Moyer Rust serves diners David Logan and Christopher Latham at newly opened Vignola in the Gaslamp Quarter.

featuring only five first courses, five entrées and three desserts. He does add a second page featuring his daily picks, including a couple more appetizers and desserts. While the menu may be small, the diner is presented with a nice variety of choices: free-range chicken; beef tenderloin; the other white meat and seafood.
    I started with the "Duck and Fois Gras Paté" ($6.95) accompanied by the traditional cornichons, croutons and black olives. It was smooth, earthy and fattening, just as it should be. I also tried the "Steamed Black Mussels" ($6.25). Although I loved the broth, made of white wine, shallots and purple mustard, the mussels were a little scrawny and chewy. Still, I soaked up all the nectar I could with the delicious sourdough French baguette and happily moved on to my next course.
    In the entrée department you really can’t go wrong; I’ve had four out of the five choices and was completely pleased with each. "The Pan-Seared Plaice (playce) and Salmon Duo" ($15.95) is a must. Plaice is a member of the flounder family, thicker, heartier and very popular in Europe. The fishes are served on a bed of hand-rolled pasta, sautéed cucumber with capers, paprika and garlic sauce. Poigin cooks the fish quickly over a vigorous fire keeping the flavors full and capable of enchanting tongue, mouth and stomach.
    For dessert you can have an "Imported Plate of French Cheeses" ($7.95), a "Warm Bittersweet Chocolate Tart" ($6) or an "Apple and Dry Cherry Tart Tartin" ($6). All desserts are made in-house and are very beautiful. They remind me of glossy magazine layouts on a plate. Actually Poigon, a competitive kick-boxer, looks like he belongs in a glossy magazine layout, too. Hey, I said he was glamorous, didn’t I?

— Terryl Gavre

    Until now, I thought beeper use was limited to phone messages, but a restaurant in the Golden Triangle is using them in an innovative way — to alert customers, waiting indoors and out, that their tables are ready.
    Gotta love a gimmick, and Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery is full of them. This new spot, which took the place of the Elephant Bar, attracts business people to socialites, seniors and students, thanks in part to its central location at the corner of Villa La Jolla and La Jolla Village Drive. The brick-colored building with bright accent paint and the "Seal Stout" tower are giveaways of the fun atmosphere inside.

At first I was wary. Another wanna-be hip, overpriced, mediocre food place? Fortunately, I was wrong. We did receive a beeper, but didn’t really need it, as we waited just feet from the hostess and only for a few minutes. Reservations are available, and one-third of the restaurant is set aside at all times for those who plan ahead. Next time.     The inside decor is upbeat and colorful. We opted for a spot on the patio to enjoy the sunshine and fresh air. Just yards from the street, we were insulated by lovely hanging flower pots and soft light pouring through the patio cover. The menu items were creative, combining interesting ingredients to make unique dishes or spins on common ones.     An order of "Smoked Shrimp Bruschetta" soon came. It smelled good and tasted even better. Sautéed shrimp atop salsa on garlic bread, finished with a shave of Asiago cheese and fried basil. What a combination. Slightly warm, it was delicious.     Two huge salads then arrived. The presentation was attractive and the portions tremendous. Had we known, we would have split one. (No half-salads are available; take-home boxes are.)     Chinese chicken salad lovers will be delighted by "Mrs. Chow's Sizzling Shrimp Salad," featuring smoked shrimp and sautéed vegetables atop mixed greens tossed in "Rocksabi Sesame Dressing." The flavors were wonderful. I also would have enjoyed the sautéed toppings alone with rice or even tortillas (an Asian fajita, if you will). You might wish to request "light dressing." We felt both salads had a bit too much, and those with shy taste buds should know that the dressing has a spicy kick.     The "Tuscan Smoked Salad" also was a hit, with its bowl full of greens, sun-dried tomatoes, apples, walnuts, carrots, red peppers

Lattina Adams enjoys an upbeat decor and unique dishes while dining on the patio of the Rock Bottom Brewery.

and Gorgonzola — all tossed in a tangy balsamic vinaigrette and topped with grilled chicken breast. Although we should have stopped there, we ordered a brick oven pizza. Called the "Zesty Sicilian," it had roasted garlic, fried capers, sun-dried and Roma tomatoes, olive relish and cheese. Topped with fresh basil, it was very good — especially perfect for olive lovers. The crust was exceptional, light and crispy with a hint of sweetness from Rock Bottom's Honey Brown Ale in the recipe.
    The menu had many more items: an entire listing of sandwiches and burgers, pastas and entrées like ribs, chicken, buffalo fajitas, vegetarian enchiladas and fresh fish. During dinner, the menu features fewer sandwiches and a larger selection of entrées. Prices are moderate; appetizers are $5 to $8; dishes are $8 to $10; and some dinner entrées are a few dollars more.
For dessert we ordered "Apple Pie with Cinnamon Ice Cream" — scrumptious and rich. Traditional apple pie lovers should note that the filling is unique, a cross between apple pie and cheesecake.
    Oh, about the beer. After all, it is a microbrewery. Few around us were drinking during lunch. Most of the beer tasting is reserved for happy hour and dinner. Our waiter recommended his favorites, the "Rag Top Red" and the "Long Board Brown," but samplers let you taste the lot. Other sea-themed varieties include "Great White American Light," "Breakwater Pale Ale" and "Black Seal stout." Cheers.

— Melissa Jacobs