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As fall approaches, many women focus more seriously on their wardrobes. Casual summer styles give way to tailored, classic looks featuring deeper colors and heavier fabrics. Busier calendars, with more business meetings and social functions, offer a good excuse to go shopping. The experience can be fun, but it also may be important to your career.
"The idea of 'dressing for success' is critical, because when a customer knows she looks great and is dressed appropriately, she's more confident and comfortable, and thus can concentrate on her profession," says Helgi Loigu, San Diego district manager for the Doncaster clothing company.
But the right clothing image varies, depending on a woman's profession. Artists have a different look from politicians while lawyers and accountants have to dress differently from advertising professionals. "It’s all about finding the appropriate look for your respective field," says Loigu. "We also want our customers to understand the newest looks and identify a style that’s right for them.
"Color, for example, can be used to create a certain image or desired response," she says. For some women, having confidence and a strong positive image may appear natural, while others find they need an extra boost. Thus, to create a confident look, a woman might wear red — the color of strength and power.
While many female execs have the fashion savvy necessary to put together such a dynamite outfit, those needing some |
Helgi Loigu is San Diego district manager
for the Doncaster clothing company.
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help have places to turn. A knowledgeable salesperson at your favorite department store is one option; another is what is known as the "living catalog" approach, using a personal shopping consultant from companies like Doncaster or Carlisle.
These companies and their clothing lines have been around for years. Doncaster opened its doors in 1931; Carlisle in 1991. Both focus on the personal selling concept of women's clothing, using direct-sales through a network of wardrobe consultants who share their expertise on color, fabric, style, fit and the use of accessories. At Doncaster, many consultants even pick up alteration costs for their client — hems and sleeves are always included.
Nancy Kurimay has been a fashion consultant for Carlisle for nearly six years. "The idea of in-home shopping has grown by leaps and bounds because many women don’t like braving the crowded malls, or they are tired of wearing the same clothes as everyone else who shops in the malls," says Kurimay.
To ensure quality, both companies' fabrics come from the same mills that clothing purveyors like Bill Blass, Escada and Chanel utilize. Both companies also have their own designers and manufacturers.
"The beauty of the clothes is that everything works together," says Kurimay. "It’s easy to be creative on your own — or a trained consultant, like myself, will work on a one-to-one basis with you as your 'personal shopper.'"
A local businesswoman studies
selections at Doncaster's Studio in
the Golden Triangle area.
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With Carlisle, consultants show the collection four times a year — once each season — for a week at a time. Clients are able to try on samples of the outfits in sizes ranging from zero to 18, and then order. Belts, scarves, and jewelry chosen specifically to coordinate with the collection also are available, as are suggestions on shoes and hosiery.
"A lot of my clients are businesswomen. They need to look good and professional all the time, but they don’t have much time to spend at the stores," says Kurimay. "I also work around their schedules. I send them videos of each show ahead of time, so they can see what the upcoming season will bring."
Both lines are described as high-end separates — like Anne Klein, Donna Karan, Chanel, St. John — but priced below what’s normal for couture clothing. "They appeal to women of all ages, because the styles are classic, and the fabrics range from knits to silk to cashmere and fine wool," Kurimay says.
For those used to shopping the sale racks, there is no such thing with in-home consultants. Carlisle's jackets are in the mid-$400s; pants in the mid-$200s; blouses in the low to mid-$200s and sweaters in the mid-$200s. Doncaster's prices run a bit lower, and both collections' fall clothes tend to be pricier than summer or spring lines because of the fabrics used.
"The dollars translate into quality, and a custom look that will last for years," says Kurimay. "The items are made very well; there is no skimping on details, seams or quality."
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Unlike Carlisle, Doncaster's four collections are available through a home trunk show and also at a year-round studio in the Golden Triangle/UTC area. Clients can book a day or evening appointment at which they can try on clothes and receive fashion advice.
"Consultants also often visit clients' offices to present the collection," says Loigu. "We will bring a portfolio of photographs and swatches and perhaps a few outfits. There are up to several hundred pieces, so it would be impossible to bring the entire line. Instead, we assess ahead of time what pieces would be of most interest and use for the client."
The strategy is to sell clients more than a single outfit or piece of clothing.
"Doncaster designs with the 'wardrobing' concept in mind. You can add to your existing wardrobe and build upon it from season to season," Loigu says. "Consultants keep track of what they sell each customer, so they can suggest new items each season that would complement and update your wardrobe. Everything mixes and matches to give you many looks."
For those concerned about looking too different from their friends who shop at the department stores, Loigu says not to worry. "Because we are in direct-sales we have to be very up-to-date. Our designers, who work in New York, visit the major fashion capitals of the world, just like the designers from other labels," she says. "In department stores, corporate buyers purchase segments of many different labels' collections, whereas we have one entire collection, so every piece on display has to be tops."
Once clothing items are ordered, clients can expect to receive them from the factory — brand new and never worn or tried on by anyone else — in an average of 10 to 14 days. A final fitting wraps up the purchases and makes sure that everything is to the customer's satisfaction.
For more information on Carlisle, call Nancy Kurimay at 546-8868; for more information on Doncaster, call Helgi Loigu at (760) 728-2197.
In theory, the summer months are giving San Diego professionals a little R&R (that’s Rest & Relaxation for those who don’t know this expression because they aren’t getting enough of it). And now fall brings on a bit more R&R — this time in the form of fashion advice from Rich Brady (Brady's) and Ron Ford (Ron Stuart and Co.). With the latest tips from these clothing gurus, every man can look his best in the upcoming season.
Coats and Suits
Ford says the three-button suit and sports coat is definitely the prime seller for fall. Consider buying one in the many muted shades of solid colors, known as "fancy solids." They have texture or a secondary color within the fabric, making for a more interesting and varied look.
Those wishing for something new and stylish may opt for a vested suit in the traditional colors men normally buy for suits, says Brady — black, taupe and gray. Ford expects this type of suit to pick up in sales this season and for good reason. When a man takes off his coat, a handsome vest is revealed, offering a tailored, dressed-up appearance — and a good excuse for not wearing the coat all day.
And yes, it’s back, Brady says: the artificial-suede sport coat. The entire coat is ultra suede — it looks and feels like real suede — but it is perfect for travel, because it won’t wrinkle. These two-button coats come in tan, black and navy, selling in the $300 to $500 range. Brady recommends pairing the coat with a micro-fiber or wool slacks for a handsome sporty look.
Shirts
The knit polo (with a collar) or the mock turtle neck is very strong, says Brady. These shirts are comfortable and easy to wear all summer and spring in short sleeves, and now they are available in long sleeves for the fall and winter. Brady says the mock turtle neck complements vested suits or sporty knit vests especially well.
Fabrics
The main fabrics are wool and micro-fiber blends. For travelers, the latter is a better option, because it tends to wrinkle much less and occasionally can be washed at home rather than dry-cleaned.
Brady says there are a lot of neat "touch fabrics" as well this season. Whether it is "tencel" or a "viscose silk blend," these fabrics feel "like butter" — or in cleaner terms, like washed silk. "They look like a fine, super-100 gabardine wool pant, but they are wonderfully soft and comfortable," says Brady. They are not flashy and flowing, however, they are just like normal pants.
Pants
Pleats are going down from four to three to two — even an occasional single pleat for a fashionable look. "It’s really cool," says Brady, though he admits that most people still opt for a triple pleat.
Colors
GRAY, GRAY, GRAY! This is the hottest shade for fall, whether it’s light, medium or dark. The use of gray in men's clothes carries over from spring and summer, but new fabrics will be slightly heavier in weight and texture for autumn and winter suits, pants and sport coats. Also re-emerging in popularity is the color brown — in suits, pants and sport coats.
For dress shirts, the ever-popular white and blue remain strong. Also try deep taupe and tan for something new.
Casual Days
For casual days, Stuart says short-sleeve sports shirt (knit or cut-and-sewn) or short-sleeve dress shirts with slacks are perfect year-round, thanks to San Diego’s moderate climate. Still-warm October and November will cause Hawaiian-inspired lines with brighter prints to sell well even in the fall.
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