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 Although he admits that many times over the years he has been warned to stay out of the restaurant business, former San Diego Mayor Roger Hedgecock just couldn’t resist the temptation. Along with investors, he opened Roger's on Fifth last month in the Gaslamp Quarter.
The space, formerly known as Garlix, has been jinxed ever since the late '80s with the departure of Chef Gunther Emathinger and his restaurant, Falco. The location has since been home to at least four restaurants, each lasting no longer than the average Hollywood marriage.
The feeling is clubby, yet casual, and it is definitely "Mr. Roger's Neighborhood." Hedgecock is ever-present, shaking hands and working the room much like Newt Gingrich worked the Congressional floor. Dark wood paneling meets exposed brick walls and furniture is richly upholstered. Artist renderings of "famous San Diegans" adorn several white walls. While many of the subjects are dead, most are still smiling. I am devastated to report (after checking several times) that the Downtown Baroness of Breakfast was missing, entrée and all.
The food is described (not unlike the restaurant's namesake) as "traditional American." A nice selection of steaks, fish and chops is offered along with some interesting starters and salads. Chef Larry Banares, a longtime San Diego culinary figure, executes the rather tamed-down menu with style, adding his signature twist-and-shout where he can sneak it in. I say "tamed-down" because Banares has earned his reputation romancing Asian and other ethnic flavors with near abandon. He is working wonders with this so-called "traditional" menu.
We started with the house-recommended "Grilled Chicken Quesadilla" ($6.95). It is served with a roasted tomato salsa which includes manchego cheese, toasted pinenuts and roasted chiles. Our server also suggested the "Baked Onion Soup with Tart Apple" ($5.95). This Banares signature dish flatters the original with exquisite restraint. The rich espresso-colored broth, laced with shredded green apple and topped with puffed pastry, oozes with Maytag bleu cheese.
Other first courses that tempted me included the "Dungeness Crab Cakes with Cilantro Cream" ($8.25) and the "Roasted Asparagus with Shaved Reggiano" ($5.95). The salad selection includes something for everyone: a spinach ($5.95), a Caesar ($5.50), a field green ($4.95) and an avocado with mango ($5.95).
The main menu selection was a difficult decision for me because the menu verbiage was so inviting: "Orfila merlot glaze," "ancho-chile ketchup," "trio of wild mushrooms." I wanted several and was pondering this most difficult decision when "Roger" came by. Although our pleasant conversation nearly came to an abrupt end when I asked him if he was supporting Bradley or Gore, the proprietor quickly recovered and recommended that I go for the "Grilled Pork Chop with Port Wine Sauce" ($19.95). He didn’t steer me wrong. This double-cut slab of pork was a tour de force of salty, sweet, peppery and smoky flavors expertly grilled and seated next to the creamiest of cheesy scalloped potatoes.
My companion ordered the "Grilled Filet of Beef with Orfila Merlot Glaze" ($21.95). The ample cut was a tad over the medium rare requested temperature, but all was forgiven when we tasted the merlot glaze. Mmmmm. Entrées are served with a choice of baked potato, scalloped potatoes or rice pilaf.
For non-meat eaters, four fresh fish are offered nightly, and you can choose between a sautéed or broiled preparation. They range in price from $17.95 to $18.95.
The thoughtfully selected wine list rounds up some of the best labels California has to offer and at very fair prices. Our service was excellent and the evening was highlighted by meeting Cindy Hedgecock who, like her husband, is politically "well-seasoned."
All in all this is one "establishment" that can please all ideologic tastes, except perhaps, for a few of Roger's constituents who may object to the rather "liberal" portions.
— Terryl Gavre
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