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In Argentina the "asado," or meat cooked over an open barbecue, is considered the national dish. Patagonia Restaurant, which opened late December in the Golden Triangle, is dedicated to serving authentic Argentine cuisine. The $2 million remodel of the old Anthony's space features a 30-foot barbecue or "parilla" that lines an entire wall of the exhibition kitchen.
Executive Chef Gaston Medrano, an Argentine transplant, heads up a kitchen staff that includes his father, Hector, who comes in daily to make the "Empanadas." If you ask me, that is pretty authentic. The "Empanadas" ($3), which are found on the "Tapas" or "little plates" list, are delicious little pastry pockets filled with either beef, chicken or fresh corn. They are served with a chile-paste sauce — which has a good kick — for dipping. Whatever you do, don’t insult the chef (as I did) by asking for a fork! Empanadas are made to eat with your hands. I learned this the hard way one day last month when Gaston, who is as handsome as his name implies, invited me to dine at Patagonia. I faux-pas'd big time. I will forever refer that as "the fork incident."
The "Mollejas Al Verdeo" or sautéed sweetbreads ($6) are to die for and are a generous portion for the price. They are sautéed in a simple combination of olive oil, garlic and scallions. I was served a bowl brimming over with these tasty morsels that sort of look like Cracker Jacks. Another excellent starter is the "Calamarettis Fritos" or fried baby calamari ($6). They are both tender and crunchy, have great flavor and are garnished with just a spattering of aioli and lemon.
One absolute must-order item is the "Ensalada Completa" ($8). It’s even great to share; just get it. It is a plate of mixed greens combined with diced potatoes, beets, heart of palm, eggs and chevre tossed with a chile-lime vinaigrette.
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Dolores Cossio of Patagonia Restaurant
won’t be offended if you use your fork
for the 14-ounce New York steak
or Chilean Sea Bass.
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