|
A Talented Team
The Cohns And Deborah Scott Do Exotic
Foods Right At Hillcrest's Kemo Sabe
I don’t think that David Cohn would mind if I so boldly say that one of the smartest things he ever did (besides marrying Lesley) was to team up with the outrageously talented Chef Deborah Scott. The Cohns and Scott partnered in October of 1995, opening Kemo Sabe in the heart of Hillcrest just two doors down from their first restaurant, Corvette Diner.
Kemo Sabe, which means "trusted friend," serves food with Southwestern and Asian influences. Scott is a native of Virginia Beach, Va. — not the cuisine capital of the world. Her diverse tastes and love of spicy, exotic foods are a credit to her strong creative mind. Just listen to some of these menu items: "Roasted Nut Crusted Brie" ($9.50), "Thai Jerk Smoked Duck Salad" ($12), "Black and White Sesame Salmon" ($17.50) and "Chile and Sage Rubbed T-Bone" ($22).
Scott attended both the Baltimore International Culinary College and the Culinary Institute of America, so there is no question that she is an able panhandler. She began her hands-on experience at the award-winning Clark Cookhouse and Whitehouse Tavern in Newport, R.I. She moved to San Diego in 1992 and opened her first restaurant, Mediterraneo, in Alpine. She also was the driving force behind Little Italy's terribly-missed Indigo Grill.
I have dined many times at Kemo Sabe and always ask myself the same two questions while I am trying to strap myself into my seat belt later: "Why did I order so much?" and "Why don’t I come here more often?"
We tasted almost everything on the menu the night I came for this piece. Of course I had the "Nut Crusted Brie" — it’s chick-food No. 1. Have you ever known a woman who didn’t love brie cheese? It is served hot and melty with jalepeño jelly and grilled squaw bread. We had the "Pecan-Sesame Crusted Calamari" ($7.50) with a Vietnamese-chile dipping sauce, and it was wonderful. The calamari was fresh, tender and perfectly cooked, and the chile sauce had a nice little sweetness to it so it wasn’t too hot.
The big favorite of the evening in the starter area (I told you I ate too much) was the "Teriyaki Glazed Salmon" ($9.50). It’s served over an Asian slaw made with bean sprouts, taro root and preserved black beans. Try it.
We ordered two entrées and switched at the half way point: the "Crispy Tangerine Duck" ($17.50) and the "Kahlua-Peanut Glazed Ribs" ($17). I can’t recommend one over the other as both are excellent and beautifully exhibit Scott's flair for artistic expression.
If you haven't experienced it for yourself, you really need to go to Kemo Sabe just to "see" the food that comes out of Scott's kitchen. Artist Frank Stella couldn’t make better use of space than Scott does on her plates. Almost every inch of plate space is utilized for the dramatic presentation of an entrée, accompaniment or garnish.
The same can be said for the interior design of Kemo Sabe. Almost every inch has been decorated in a thoughtful, tasteful way. Lesley Cohn has an active role in the design of all Cohn operations, and Kemo Sabe may well best represent her diversity and good use of line. (There ain't a straight one in the place.)
David Cohn, have I told you lately? You’re a smart, smart man.
— Terryl Gavre
|
