The other day I was reading an article in Life Magazine. It was all about love. Researchers were explaining how one glimpse of the right person is capable of setting off a chemical reaction leading to romance. But what happens after that? Why do some relationships flourish while others sadly fizzle? Researchers say it’s chemical. Pheromones: odorless, airborne molecules produced and released by our bodies. They trigger an impulse that drives us to mate, marry and remain monogamous. They come to us directly through sensation and touch (I believe also by taste) and when we meet the right person we really can’t help it; we fall in love.

Which reminds us of the scene last month on Valentine's Day at Le Fontainebleau: hopeful women wearing strapless red dresses, pheromones, and engagement rings being handed out like New Year’s Eve party favors.     Le Fontainebleau, the dining room at the Westgate Hotel Downtown, is high on the list of the city's most beautiful and romantic dining spots. Formal and elegant, yet comfortable and warm not only describe the room visually, but the service as well.     Executive Chef René Herbeck was formally trained in Europe with two- and three-star Michelin-rated chefs. Prior to taking over in the "Bleau Room," he spent the last six years with Le Meridien Hotel at Marius Restaurant where he received national praise and won numerous awards. The menu at Le Fontainebleau reflects Herbeck's French and Vietnamese heritage, which makes for an interesting mix of traditional and unconventional flavor.

Executive Chef René Herbeck visits with Sandra Mena and Hilda Ladran as they dine at the Westgate's Le Fontainebleau.

    My dining companion and I began our evening in what I call the "parlor," a pretty little side room adjacent to the formal dining room with cozy French furnishings and fine vodka martinis. I enjoyed my little "unwinder" as I listened to the long list of reasons why he was late. It was to his benefit that I was one martini up on him; martinis make me amiable.
    We started our dinner with the "Seared Foie Gras" ($19.50). It was perfectly pan-seared and resting on a bed of blanched cabbage. Herbeck rounds out the flavor by accenting the dish with a "Beaumes de Venise" sauce. He deglazes the pan with sweet wine and a splash of duck stock, reduces it and drizzles the result over the fattened duck liver. I felt a prickle of chill on the back of my neck and arms as I swallowed the first bite of my rich and earthy prelude to dinner. It felt a lot like love. Pheromones?
    The "Raviolis of Wild Mush-rooms" ($14.50) are house-made and served with "Beurre aux Herbes" (fresh herb butter). Generous, almost pillow-sized, ravioli are beautifully presented over the spinach-infused (for color) herb sauce.
    My companion (who always chooses an entrée that I like better than my own) selected the "Roasted Rack of Lamb" ($25). He did not break tradition, as after one taste, I found myself longing for his loins (of lamb). Expertly roasted to medium-rare, accompanied with a creamy garlic sauce and decorated with fresh vegetables, it was perfection, a Picasso on a plate.
    We also shared the "Roasted Gray Pheasant Stuffed with Morels" ($26). The stuffed, rolled and sliced bird was atop a layer of fresh spinach with "Pommes Bouchon" (corked potatoes) strewn about the plate. The pheasant was moist, had the mild flavor of a wild game bird, and again, the presentation was museum-quality.
    Victor, the maitre d', paired each of our courses with an appropriate and pleasing wine. The staff at Le Fontainebleau is impeccably trained and extremely knowledgeable about both the menu and the wine list.
    The desserts are house-made, and this is where you really see and taste Herbeck's French influence. We shared a "Thin Apple Tart" with homemade rosemary créme glacée. It was a pheromone platter, lemme tell ya, like swallowing cupid's elixir. From the blush the wine left on my cheeks to the warmth of the food in my belly, I left Le Fontainebleau an addict...yes of course to the pheromones, but also to Herbeck's cooking.

— Terryl Gavre

    Sami, Sami, Sami Ladeki, now you've really done it. What’s the matter — bored with your nine Sammy's Woodfired Pizza Restaurants?
    Roppongi, the new jewel of "Sammy's" companies, opened in October. It is a sleek and swanky restaurant, filled with folk who fit the same description. Its Asian-Fusion style and cuisine have absolutely hit their mark, as evidenced when I dined there a couple times last month.

The menu is extensive and begins with an "Asian Tapas" list that offers more than 25 "small-plate" items. I probably have tried every dish and, quite frankly, I am having trouble choosing a few to feature here. The "Crispy Buttermilk Onion Rings with Wasabi Garlic Aioli" ($6.50) definitely hits the don’t-miss list. Several times I have enjoyed the "Chinese Potstickers Filled with Shrimp and Scallops" ($8.75). Four overstuffed, beautifully steamed potstickers are artistically arranged and topped with a Tobiko caviar sauce. Hearty, yet delicate, they melted in my mouth like a dollop of whipping cream — you must try them.     I’m a huge fan of any type of ribs, and the "Korean Barbecue Pork Spare Ribs with Asian Slaw and Ponzu" ($18) did not disappoint me. They were moist and meaty (not fatty), and the ponzu had a great little kick. Tears of joy came to my eyes while eating the "Pan Seared Foie Gras" ($18). I cannot let an order of foie gras pass by me if it is on a menu. I simply must, I mean must, order it. It was cooked to perfection, had a rich earthy taste and was complemented by an orange tamarind sauce. Yes, $18 seems high for a "tapa," but it’s an expensive cost item and quite a well-worth-it luxury. Splurge.     The menu continues with a "Soup and Salad" section, which features "Thai Curry Coconut Soup" ($5) that is not to be skipped. There is a "Wok Fried Rice and Noodle" section as well as a "Seafood" and "Meat and Game" section. (I told you this was an extensive menu.) Executive Chef Stephen Window really likes to stay on his toes in the kitchen. It’s tough to offer such a wide variety of dishes and do it well; he manages to pull it off beautifully.     One of my big favorites in the entrée category is the "Crispy Whole Striped Bass" ($25).

Chef Stephen Window serves Steve Bauer one of the wide variety of dishes available at Roppongi.

Not only is the presentation fantastic, the meaty fish is moist, flavorful and huge. Actually, after an evening of tapas, you could share the entrée and do yourself fine. The "Szechwan Peppercorn Crusted New York Steak with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes and Cognac Sauce" ($25) is another choice I will gladly repeat.
    The creative energy continues throughout the dessert menu. The "Warm Thai Coconut Sticky Rice served with Fresh Mango" ($5.50) is enchanting. I also recommend the "Tahitian Bananas served over Vanilla Ice Cream with Almond Brittle" ($7). The chef creates a special chocolate something on the dessert menu nightly — go for it.
    Sami Ladeki, the consummate restaurateur, has a wonderful addition to his restaurant family with Roppongi. Something tells me this is not his last creative endeavor. Remember, you heard it here. I love saying, "I told you so."

— Terryl Gavre