Getting Some Gordon Gordon Biersch serves up fine fare and brew in a Mission Valley 'industrial chic' setting     In the past few years Mission Valley has become quite the hub of activity-outlet stores, mall expansions and multiplex movie theaters. It has also become home to a pretty nice list of fun, interesting and good restaurants. Being more of an eater than a shopper, this makes me a happy girl.     One new addition to Mission Valley that is well worth the calories is Gordon Biersch Brewery and Restaurant. The new free-standing building sits where the old Rusty Pelican used to be (the quick left and then hard right off the Mission Center Road exit). The parking lot is a jungle because it is shared with what seems like every other retailer in the area. However, Gordon Biersch offers complimentary valet parking, which makes all the difference in the world.     Gordon Biersch was founded by Dan Gordon and Dean Biersch. They opened their first restaurant featuring handcrafted beers in Palo Alto, Calif., in 1987. Brewer Rich Johnson and Chef William Heckler team up with Gordon Biersch fare. They brew a Pilsner, Marzen, Dunkles, Blonde Bock and Golden Export, all on site. I had a glass of the Dunkles, a sweet German-style lager, with my meal. It was served in a glass straight from the dishwasher (still warm) so the beer wasn’t as cold as it should have been, but otherwise it had great flavor.     The multimillion-dollar buildout is fantastic. The phrase "industrial-chic" is most appropriate to describe this 385-seat mix of stainless steel, aluminum, warm woods and beautiful people. The main dining room is flanked by huge booths that seat up to 10, while the bar is flanked by a huge crowd of young, hip people who rank between 8 and 10 on the chic scale.     The menu is described as "robust American cooking" and offers a wide range. Although the "starters" list is lengthy, after three trips to Gordon Biersch I have almost managed to work my way through every item. My favorite pick would have to be the "Baby Back Ribs with Marzen BBQ Glaze" ($7.95). No one loves a good ribbing more than I do. Sweet, salty, sticky, stringy and sensational are those ribs. I also like the "Shrimp and Chicken Potstickers with Soy and Hot Mustard" ($7.95).     I know what you’re thinking: This is a little expensive for a beer joint. I tend to agree. But the food is well-prepared and beautifully presented. I think Gordon Biersch is trying to push the envelope a bit and not be lumped into the "just a beer joint" category. There are your typical "brew-pub-ish" appetizers as well: "Beer Battered Jumbo Onion Rings with Honey Mustard" for $3.95 and good 'ol "Garlic Fries," which I’m a guppy for, also for $3.95.     Ten salads on the list range from the entrée-sized "Spinach and Prawn" ($11.95) with napa cabbage, red onion, red peppers and warm bacon dressing to the "Baby Lettuces with Dunkles Vinaigrette" ($4.25). I thought that the "Dunkles Vinaigrette" was a bit on the plain side — maybe it just wasn’t stirred well, but it needed something. If you’re looking for zest, get the Caesar. The dressing does pack a good deal of kick and it comes in two sizes ($5.95-$7.95).     You can go many directions on your main course: "Pancetta, Caramelized Onions, Spinach and Gorgonzola Pizza" ($9.95), "Sweet and Spicy Cashew Chicken Stir-Fry" ($9.95), "Barbecued Salmon with Sweet Red Onions" ($15.95) or a "Grilled 14-Ounce New York Steak" ($17.95). I absolutely loved the gorgonzola pizza; I ordered it on each of my visits and it was consistently wonderful.     Gordon Biersch does a big noon-hour business, so get there early if you don’t have time to wait. The service is a bit swifter at lunch than in the evening, and the prices are a little lower as well. The value-conscious dines at Gordon Biersch in the daytime — the image-conscious shows up in the evening. No matter when you go, dining at Gordon Biersch will not be disappointing. — Terryl Gavre

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