Goodbye '90s, decade of "fusion" and the sun-dried tomato. Hello 2000 — the decade of meat and potatoes? Whether it’s a backlash against trendy food, disillusionment with the constantly changing health reports from the medical community or simply the desire to keep it plain and simple, beef is back, baby — and with a real vengeance.
    Steakhouses are the fastest growing segment of the upscale restaurant community. So with the success of chains like Morton's and Ruth's Chris or the "white tablecloth" steakhouses, along with the shared success of Stuart Anderson's and Outback Steakhouses or the "family" steakhouses, it seems that it was only as matter of time before someone clever strategically placed one right in the middle.
    His name is Paul Fleming, the P. F. in P.F. Chang's, and partner of Bill Allen, former CEO of Koo Koo Roo. Together, these two industry biggies have hit the new millennium food trend right in the old sweet-spot.
    Located at the Aventine, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, Fleming's Steakhouse is perfectly placed. Sandwiched between the long running success, Café Japengo, and the well-respected newcomer, Palomino, it couldn’t have hit its demographic requirements better: young (but not hipster), financially comfortable (but not fat-cat) and driving dark-colored, late-model European cars.
    After three visits, I can solidly say that I have sampled a good portion of the menu (food menu that is, not the 100 wines-by-the-glass menu). The "Petite Filet Mignon" ($19) is an 8-ounce cut of USDA prime corn-fed midwestern beef, aged and handcut on the property. Resting in a shallow pool of sizzling salty butter, it is served on a plate so hot it could brand you. I ordered it twice, and it was excellent both times. I have sampled the "16-ounce Ribeye" ($24) as well as the "New York" ($24), which also weighs in at a pound, and found all steaks to be flavorful, juicy and tender. Although the menu describes medium rare as having a red warm center and medium as having a pink center, it was my experience on all three visits that the chef tends to cook the steaks a tad bit "under," as they say in the business.
    In addition to serving beef, Fleming's a la carte menu offers an array of fresh seafood such as "Grilled Swordfish" ($19) served with a lemon butter sauce and "Tuna Mignon" ($21) seared rare with a black peppercorn crust and a tomato vinaigrette. And, of course, there is a grilled double breast of chicken for $17.
    While the appetizer list did not dazzle me, two of the salads did. The Caesar ($5.95) is excellent: a creamy, traditional dressing perfectly pungent with anchovies and stinky parmesan shellacking ice-cold crisp romaine lettuce. And "The Wedge" ($5.95) is, I swear, an entire head of iceberg lettuce cut in thirds, served with thick tomato slices, crumbled bleu cheese and sliced red onions so sweet you could feed them to a 4-year-old. Now, I don’t like splitting things; I never share a salad or entrée. I like to eat the whole thing. I’m a big girl. But, I must advise you, no one person will ever eat the wedge salad alone. Even I agree to split this one.
    The available side dishes include creamed spinach, steamed broccoli, and a variety of potato preparations. The "signature" Fleming's Potatoes baked with leeks, jalapeños, cheddar and cream is offered, in addition to typical steakhouse potato choices (baked, mashed, scalloped, french-fried). Side dishes are between $3.95 and $4.95.
    Fleming's offers an exceptional wine selection with more than 100 domestic and imported wines served by the glass. This is where they get you. While they depart from traditional steakhouses offering prime grade beef in an elegant setting at reasonable prices, the wine list is full retail, especially if you go by-the-glass. So, I guess that means you better get a bottle.

— Terryl Gavre