The rebuilding in 1997 of the 1915 Foreign Arts Building in Balboa Park is truly a study in preserving historical style. Although the original building was demolished and a new one built in its place, San Diegans and architectural aficionados alike are elated that such a wonderful semblance of the original "plateresque" style building, designed first by Carlton M. Winslow and then remodeled by Richard Requa, again stands. The structure, which was renamed the "House of Hospitality" in 1935 so it could serve as the reception center for the California-Pacific International Exposition, is now home to the newest addition to the Cohn Culinary Collection, The Prado Restaurant.

If architectural aficionados find The Prado a feast for the eyes, food aficionados (more commonly known as "foodies") will find the cuisine a party for the palate. In fact, calling it a party is an understatement; it’s more like a Mardi Gras.

The cuisine features creative and original versions of Latin, Italian and Mediterranean dishes. It is testimony to Executive Chef Jeff Thurston's ambition that he offers dishes from three rather diverse regions and pulls it off with panache. But he is a "Puck Person" — one of the chosen many who has worked his way through the world of Wolfgang Puck Industries and come out alive and cooking. His most recent engagement was in Seattle at Restaurant Indochine, Puck's popular concept that pairs high style and high prices with Asian-Fusion fare.

I often think of the pressure it must put on a young chef to have the name Wolfgang Puck mentioned on your résumé — knowing that ravenous restaurateurs will gobble you up, embroider your name on a jacket and expect miracles. Well, if you ask me, this young man Thurston, clothed in simple white cotton, is God-like — in the kitchen that is, and he's pumping out 350 to 500 miracles a day (and that’s not counting banquets or parties).

Twice I dined at The Prado and each time I started with the "Tortilla Soup" ($4.95). I judge tortilla soup harshly, as my favorite soup of all time is the "Tortilla Soup" at Chimayo Restaurant in Park City, Utah. Except for the garnish of cilantro-crème fraîche floating in a tortilla boat at Chimayo, this is better. It is the color of fresh-ground cumin and is so smooth in texture it’s almost a purée. The resonant flavors of white beans, corn flour and chicken stock lingered on my tongue long after the soup was gone.

"The Farmers Salad" ($10.95) also was something I ordered twice. A heart of romaine is split down the middle and placed on a grill. It is cooked slightly, just warmed actually, and then served with chopped marinated Roma tomatoes and thick-sliced sweet and sour Walla Walla onions. It is drizzled with a balsamic syrup and served on a plate sauced with chive-infused oil. It’s a beautiful presentation and wonderful salad.

Be sure to splurge on the "Roasted Vegetable Napoleon" ($10.95). A tower of grilled eggplant, herbed goat cheese and red and yellow tomatoes, it is not only spectacular looking but a great combination of flavors and textures.

It’s hard to choose an entrée because so many things on the list sound so delicious: "Pistachio Crusted Rack of Lamb" served with soft fried plantains, "Smoked Duck Chile Rellenos" with black mole sauce, "Fish Tacos" with jícama slaw and black beans. Having to choose just one of these entrées, priced between $8.95 and $16.95, will drive you mad. (Just order two as I did.)

This is it — The Prado is the David and Lesley Cohn showpiece, the one with all the bells and whistles. There's a specialty drink list featuring a margarita made with prickly pear syrup and their "World Famous Sangria." (Hmm, quite a lofty status when they've only been available for two months!) My guess is that it will take a bit longer, but The Prado Restaurant at Balboa Park might just itself be world famous one day.

— Terryl Gavre