Newly opened Napa Valley Grille is the redux, revamped replacement for the old California Café restaurant that occupied the largest restaurant space atop Downtown’s Horton Plaza for more than a decade.

Still owned and operated by the California Café Restaurant Group, it is one of six Napa Valley Grille restaurants in the country, all modeled after the original Napa Valley Grille located in Yountville, Calif.

While the changes are significant, the kitchen, restrooms and bar (the big ticket items) are in the same places. So to the layperson this was more of a fixture and décor renovation than a real gut and remodel.

Beautiful booths and soft lighting accent an elegant oversized floral arrangement in the main dining area, which is both classy and comfortable. The Napa theme is pervasive with a wine country wall mural, artifacts from the region and wrought iron grapes and vines that meander throughout the dining room.

Dinner might get under way with a "Crispy Mix of Calamari, Artichoke, Shrimp and Caperberries" ($7.95), a plate of quick-fried goodies served with a Meyer lemon aioli for dipping. It is crunchy and altogether delicious. Or the meal could begin with a flaky little pie they call "Warm Leek Confit and Portobello Tart" ($8.50). Accented with a camembert cream and red wine sauce, wash this down with a little merlot and you’re really living, sister.

Bringing a bit more drama to the menu are the salads. Two particularly noteworthy selections are the "California Hearts of Romaine" ($6.95) which are tossed with a gorgonzola dressing, spiced (and I mean spicy) pecans and shaved red onions, and the "Duck Confit and French Bean Salad" ($7.95) about which enough good cannot be said. It is a hearty portion of shredded duck prepared confit style tossed with almost equal portions of greens and French green beans with a spattering of pine nuts, feta, currants and kalamata olives. Tossed in a balsamic vinaigrette and finished with a balsamic syrup drizzled around the rim of the plate, it’s a fantastic mélange of flavors and textures.

The "Roasted Monkfish Wrapped in Smoked Bacon" ($18.95) is truly breathtaking. Roasted to its succulent ideal and resting on an army of white beans, cipollini onions and escarole, it is moist and deliciously perfumed by the smoky flavor of bacon.

Adventuring beyond seafood, there are several grilled and rotisserie entrées to choose from. The "Orange-Honey Glazed Rack of Pork" ($17.95) and a "Grilled Aged New York Steak" ($23.95) were both recommended to me by General Manager Cyndie McQueen. But I couldn’t help but be romanced away from her selections by the gorgonzola ravioli and pinot noir sauce beckoning from atop the "Center Cut Filet Mignon" ($24.95). It did not disappoint me either; in fact, it was downright gorgeous.

As its name implies, Napa Valley Grille has an impressive wine list with more than 250 selections from the Napa Valley and other premium California wine growing appellations. About 20 of the selections are available by the glass and the staff is very knowledgeable about the subtle nuances of fine wines and will be happy to suggest food and wine pairings.

Refreshed, recharged, revitalized? I should say. While Napa Valley Grille is definitely a re-do, it is still the same well-managed, friendly staffed restaurant as its predecessor.

— Terryl Gavre