San Diego Metropolitan - Downtown Dining

One of this year’s most anticipated dining spots, restaurant Nine-Ten in La Jolla, after months of construction delays, finally has opened. It’s already proving itself to be well worth the wait.

Many years ago, when I first moved to San Diego, only a handful of restaurants could qualify as trendy. By trendy, I mean an up-to-date place, a place to be seen, one serving capable food. One of these so-called trendies was Putnam’s Grill in La Jolla. It was hoppin,’ had a great little wine list — although that was back when Berringer White Zinfandel was a headliner at most California eateries — and served up a mean plate of escargots. Putnam’s was clubby and classy and a great gathering place, but remember, that was more than 15 years ago.

The subsequent years, alas, were not kind to Putnam’s. The newest and latest went in all around this little gem and it became clear that Putnam’s salad days had wilted.

Three local businessmen formed Fargo LLC and in 1998 purchased the Colonial Inn, which housed Putnam’s Grill.

This forward thinking trio — who wish to go unnamed — brought over Terry Underwood as general manager. Underwood, a local who spent the past seven years as general manager of La Jolla Beach and Tennis Club, was charged with overseeing the hotel and restaurant renovation. He immediately sought out one of San Diego’s best young chefs, Michael Stebner, who many know from his brilliance at Azzura Point. In from day one, Stebner helped with the restaurant concept and development of an all-new kitchen.

The hotel was renamed The Grande Colonial; several million dollars were invested in refurbishing the rooms, meeting space and common areas; and then, in a very bold move, $1.5 million was budgeted to redo the Putnam’s Restaurant space.

The next brilliant thing Fargo did was hire one of San Diego’s savviest designers and architects, Graham Downes, to transform the ’80s space into an elegant and contemporary setting befitting Stebner’s “al a minute” style cuisine.

The wood-accented, butter-colored rather small room is so carefully arranged that even with 65 seats one doesn’t feel crowded. This is accomplished in part by a long banquette that spans the length of the room. Oversized cloth “lampshade” style light vessels hang from high ceilings, and at night cast a warm glow, and flattering, soft light over diners.

The menu lists only 13 items, but most of them are offered in small and large plate portions. This actually makes the menu choices much larger and a lot of fun because one can craft a meal from appetizer to entrée using the entire menu.

The “Lobster Risotto” ($16/$32) is a standout. I know you don’t really want to hear the word “gamey” when I’m talking about seafood, but, baby, this is gamey. Arborio rice is slow cooked in lobster broth and then finished with a lobster reduction, truffle butter and a drizzle of truffle oil. Generous chunks of fleshy lobster are coated in this combination of rich and creamy texture.

Another must-try is the “Seared Maine Scallops” ($13). Over-sized diver scallops are cooked quickly in a very hot pan, but don’t fret, the golden-brown jacket is only skin deep. As soon as you bite into the lush, creamy-centered mollusk you will find the meat moist, rich and slightly sweet. Stebner dresses the dish with a touch of basil oil and miniature tomatoes.

The “Warm Salad of Roasted Foie Gras” ($17) was similar in preparation to the foie gras salad Stebner served at Azzura. What was delicious at Azzura is equally wonderful at Nine-Ten. Bumping up the score a point or two for atmosphere — I prefer the décor at Nine-Ten — this plate scores easily a nine or a 10. A three-quarter inch medallion of foie gras is seared with a slice of fresh pineapple and served atop a bed of wilted spinach and purple baby pearl onions. The tart, acidic property of the pineapple perfectly balances out the buttery, salty flavor of the foie gras.

“Duck Confit” ($12/$24) is served with a medley of cranberries, beans, beets, apples and pearl onions; this dish makes a great middle course or entrée.

Nine-Ten offers half a dozen housemade desserts ranging from a “Half Cooked Chocolate Cake” ($8) served with caramel sauce and whipped cream to a few homemade ice creams ($4).

Definitely one of the most anticipated restaurants to open this year, one can count on a wait for a table at Nine-Ten — unless of course, you call ahead for a reservation.