San Diego Metropolitan - Downtown Dining

But, I mainly write about food and restaurants,” I say. “Oh please, do just stay over for the evening and enjoy the resort,” replies Elizabeth, a well-dressed and perpetually perky public relations rep. “You really look like you could use a rest, and we have a wonderful spa.” So I hesitatingly accepted the offer and tried to figure out when I could possibly squeeze in an “overnighter.”

The Paradise Point Resort and Spa, owned and operated by Noble House Hotels and Resorts, is located on Mission Bay and is home to Baleen Restaurant. The resort is tucked away on a lush, 44-acre peninsula and is, for the most part, hidden away from local San Diegans. If one were blindfolded and dropped from a plane you might think that you landed on a remote island somewhere in the South Pacific, except, of course, until you spot the SeaWorld observation tower off to the east.

A remodel has added a state-of-the-art spa and health area, which was getting a lot of “steam” at the concierge desk. Since I had several hours to burn until my dinner reservation at Baleen, I decided to see what they could do with me.

Entering the spa is like walking into a lovely world in which nobody lives, but only sees through a frosted window. It is muted and minimal and the staff speaks to you in soothing, hushed voices. Working with my time frame, I selected the “Serenity Massage” in which a fellow named Chris pulled and pushed and twisted my body into a New York style pretzel and back for 80 minutes. I followed it with the “Javanese Lulur Royal Treatment,” a scrub down with turmeric, rice and sandalwood, a full-body slathering of yogurt, and an aromatic shower. I left three hours later, a young and beautiful woman, wondering, “Who was that old hag seen wearing my clothes earlier?”

I walked from my waterfront room to Baleen. The free-standing restaurant is a clever conversion of two former presidential suites and their balconies. The view is spectacular, up so close to the bay that you can actually hear the oars slipping in and out of the water from kayakers not more that 20 yards away. The décor is an odd mix of clubby and tropical, if that’s possible, and it seems to work.

A deep green carpet meets gold and mahogany walls and a copper and mahogany bar is accented with blown glass lights. The dining room is adorned with heavy chandeliers made of wagon wheels and wooden carved monkeys. Despite this odd concept, the simians really are quite cool-looking; sort of a friendlier version of those flying monkeys from Oz.

Baleen is the creation of one of Miami’s hottest chefs, Robin Hass, who was hired to help concept the restaurants for Noble’s properties. Local chef Brian Freerksen, pronounced like Eriksen with an F, spent five months working at the original Baleen in Miami, getting the “flow and the feel” down as they say, prior to Baleen San Diego’s opening in September 2000. Although the concept may belong to Hass, it is Freerksen who writes the menu and oversees this kitchen.

My companion arrived, and although we were seated at a table overlooking the water, I asked to be moved to a table that was within earshot of the exhibition kitchen, because for me, that’s where the action is. Immediately upon settling in, guests are served an oversized hunk of white “Money Bread,” a pull-apart loaf served warm with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

The menu is divided into four simple sections: appetizers, seafood, landfood and sides. All entrées come with an accompaniment except for items selected from an a la carte section where the only choice is the preparation method: wood-roasted, grilled or sautéed.

The standout on the appetizer list is the “Warm Lobster Martini on Truffle Mash” ($19.50). Yes it’s pricey, but worth every dime. An “up” martini glass is piped with rich, warm truffle mashed potatoes and topped with a half of a lobster which has been oven roasted and then drizzled with truffle oil. The presentation is spectacular and the woodsy truffle essence combined with the buttery lobster is a study in pure decadence. Another fabulous choice is the “Salad of Oak Roasted Mushrooms and Asparagus” ($10.25), a combination of chanterelle, oyster, shiitake or portabella mushrooms, and asparagus roasted and combined with “overnight” roasted tomatoes and fresh watercress. The salad is generously tossed with a bovine vinaigrette made from veal stock, beef stock, mustard and cream. It is an outstanding dish and should not be missed.

A 9-ounce “Chilean Sea Bass” ($23.95) is roasted in a 700-degree oven over Australian pine and served over a fennel and leek stew. The flaky, moist meat is such perfection that it seemed to fall onto my fork and beg to be eaten — followed, of course, by a generous swallow of good quality chardonnay.

The “Chinese Fried Whole Snapper” ($27.95) is a beautifully presented dish served with coconut white rice and fermented black bean sauce. The pungent, spicy and salty sauce is a good contrast to the sweet rice and buttery fish. I would definitely order it again.

For those not inclined to seafood or fish, a few nice offerings are found in the landfood section. Filet mignon, prime New York steak and lamb sirloin are all wood-roasted and served with complementing accompaniments.

Much like the other courses, the desserts, too, are a spectacle at Baleen. We shared a “Roasted Banana Split” flanked with caramel, roasted pineapple, fresh strawberries and blackberries, pistachios and sweet pralines, all served with vanilla ice cream over a fudge brownie. Again, sublime decadence.