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Liquid Assets
The newly opened restaurant, Meritage, is the second eatery from Dan and Susan Sbicca — the first being Sbicca in Del Mar. Off to a bustling start, this restaurant certainly is aptly named as it offers thoroughly modern American fare that brazenly blends flavors, textures and ingredients while boasting a sizable wine list comprised mainly of meritage wines. Located on Highway 101 in Encinitas, Meritage occupies a space that years ago was home to Pirets, the ahead-of-its-time, tiny chain of gourmet restaurants by the then dynamic duo of San Diego dining, George and Piret Munger. The space has such a fabulous kitchen that Executive Chef Susan Sbicca has been known to stand in the middle of it, spread out her arms wide and twirl around before giggling and pinching herself. The one-page menu is an interesting read since no two items are even remotely similar in either ingredients or preparation. Thanks perhaps in part to that spacious kitchen, Susan and Chef de Cuisine Tommy Dimello beautifully execute the vast offerings. Starters like the “Blackened Prawns with Wilted Spinach and Brie” ($10) and the “Cornmeal Crusted Calamari,” served with a jalapeño-green goddess dipping sauce ($6), set palates in motion. I was first wooed, and then wowed, by the “Lobster-Crabmeat Croquettas” ($9). The croquettas (a member of the fritter family) are crunchy-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside little mouthfuls that combine minced sea meats, a white sauce, along with fresh corn, avocado and spices. They are formed into little balls, dipped in egg, rolled in panko and quickly deep-fried. A red chili remoulade rides shotgun. Meritage 897 S. Coast Highway 101 Encinitas (858) 634-3350 Although you can add a small mixed green salad or a cup of lush lobster and shrimp bisque to your meal for only about a buck, I suggest that at least one member of your party splurge for the “Tomato-Blue Cheese Napoleon” ($8). Just-picked heirloom tomatoes are layered and stacked with shaved red onion and gorgonzola cheese, then dressed with a shockingly good creamy roasted red pepper vinaigrette (the new millennium version of Thousand Island, in my opinion) and garnished with a slabby garlic crouton. While perusing the entrée selections, my eyes bobbed up and down the page like a pinball — everything looked good. Susan does a refreshing version of “Jambalaya” ($18). Not the heavily rouxed, coffee-colored classic, but a tomato-based cleaner version, lightly brothed, loaded with seafood and seasoned with chunks of chicken andouille sausage. Another evening, the “Pan Roasted King Salmon” ($17) was my selection. Wild king salmon is crusted with toasted almonds and deep-fried capers, pan-fried, then perched on steamed spinach before being surrounded with a sherry-chantilly beurre blanc. The sauce is seasoned with saffron and a hint of orange zest, which gives it a gorgeous hue. The menu offers tempting meat, fowl and vegetarian selections as well, so no need for anyone to stay away. Meritage is a place for all types of eaters. That includes dessert eaters too, as Tommy Dimello (formerly of Pamplemousse fame) puts together nightly dessert choices that would tempt even a supermodel to splurge. — Terryl Gavre
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Meritage” is a wine word first coined in the late 1980s by a group of American vintners to describe a particular category of blended wines: those made with at least two traditional Bordeaux grape varieties, yet containing less than 75 percent of any particular grape. The word “meritage” (derived from the words “merit” and “heritage”) is fast finding its way into the culinary world, particularly in menu verbiage, where it is most commonly used as a synonym for a “blend.”