More than 2,500 members of the International Association of Culinary Professionals were in San Diego for a week of lectures, forums, networking, eating and celebration. Representing virtually every profession in the culinary field and a who’s who of the food profession, IACP members include chefs, caterers, restaurateurs, food writers, cooking teachers, television culinary personalities, marketing professionals, vintners, editors and publishers.
For those of you who missed it, I covered the IACP meetings and goings-on for the KNSD-TV Channel 7/39 Morning News.
Being fully credentialed, and thus able to sport a name badge emblazoned with the word “Media,” I was sure I could walk freely into anything and everything at the event, equipped with my very own mini-cam. At first, I had an exaggerated sense of self-importance from the attention of out-of-town attendees who mistakenly thought I might “be somebody.” This infatuation with my media badge ended quickly, however, after I was shooed out of a couple of events. Even more disappointing was being told, in no uncertain terms, that my badge did not allow me to attend the private dinner for the star chefs at La Valencia, particularly since, with my “chef cam” in hand, I was “desperately seeking Emeril.”
Have you ever noticed that your own recipes never look as beautiful as those pictured in the magazines? Well, that’s because of food stylists, artists who have perfected the craft of making plates look especially gorgeous for photographs. Classes for food stylists were held at the Great News Cooking School in Pacific Beach on the first day of the convention. We learned that shaving cream stands in nicely for whipped cream since it’s slow to lose its luster. Just don’t try to eat it.
At a “Bottled Water Blind Tasting,” a panel of experts used adjectives like “flabby,” “flat,” and “flinty,” (no, they weren’t talking about my body), terms used by master water tasters to judge and rate bottled water. Did you know that there is a water sommelier at the Ritz Carlton Hyde Park, New York? We tasted and rated about 16 bottled waters, one of which was San Diego city water. As one might guess, the local tap water came in dead last in the blind tasting. Acqua Panna floated the highest score.
Carol Blomstrom, owner of Lotsa Pasta, received raves after she served IACP members a delicious lunch of her house specialty, Timpano, a dish inspired by the movie “Big Night.” She also gave a pasta making demonstration during a tour of her restaurant.
San Diego chefs had a chance to shine while showing off their stuff at the “Taste of San Diego,” an event featuring local celebrity chefs preparing a premier dish from their menu on the opening night of the convention at the Embarcadero. The San Diego harbor and city skyline made a beautiful backdrop as conventioneers mingled from grill to sauté pan to wok, sampling fine local cuisine.
On April 18, the biggest event of the convention, “The Star Chefs: Cooking in Concert,” took place at Symphony Hall. Celebrity chefs Jacques Pepin, known for his many cookbooks and the PBS series, “Jacques Pepin Celebrates;” Martin Yan, host of “Yan Can Cook,” also on PBS; Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger (aka the “Too Hot Tamales”), chef/owners of the critically acclaimed Border Grill restaurants; and Emeril Lagasse, restaurateur, chef, author and star of Food Network’s “Emeril Live,” entertained and cooked dishes with musical accompaniment for a nearly sold-out audience.
The mix of people in the crowd was most surprising — men and women of all ages; people my grandparents’ age attended, as well as young 20-somethings. Most entertaining were the women, mostly around my mother’s age, who would cry out during quiet moments, “We love you Emeril!” Yes, the crowd was consuming wine and cocktails before the show, but it was clear that Lagasse has a diverse fan base. During the book signing and reception that followed, the line for Lagasse wrapped around the corner and down the stairs.
A press conference two hours prior to the event was my chance to meet Lagasse. For the morning show audience, I was still “desperately seeking Emeril.” Cameras and reporters would be vying for his attention, so I made sure to get there early. He came out a few minutes before the other celebrity chefs and reporters arrived. I made my move.
Lagasse is a genuinely warm and sincere person who was generous with his time and game for just about anything. He agreed to stage a scene in which we pretended I was seeking him. He took questions, asked questions and posed for pictures. It was a thrill.
The other celebrity chefs were equally wonderful and accessible, including Pepin, who sat down for a one-on-one interview earlier in the day.
On Friday night, Le Cordon Bleu Paris hosted a dinner at Laurel Restaurant. Brasserie Wine Sellar Executive Chef Scott Deihl, Laurel Executive Chef Jason Schaeffer and his staff, and many local chefs-in-training joined Le Cordon Bleu Master Chef Frederic Filliodeau and a cadre of other Le Cordon Bleu chefs in preparing a seven-course meal that took more than three days to prepare. Paired with fine French wines, it was truly spectacular and a treat not only for the palate but for the eyes.
The convention culminated on April 20 with the IACP Cookbook Awards Banquet and Gala. They were much like the Academy Awards, with nominees in many different categories and one winner selected in each. Local San Diego chefs teamed up to serve attendees a spectacular five-course meal.
The IACP members are gone and the events are over, but the imprint they left is indelible. The local culinary consciousness was raised a level or two, new friends and contacts were made, and San Diego definitely found a bigger place of its own on the culinary map.
