San Diego Metropolitan - Dishing It Out

San Diego spread its culinary wings in Northern California last month when a group of top chefs, calling themselves “The San Diego Gastronomically Correct Chefs,” swooped into Napa Valley. Headed by Bernard Guillas (Marine Room), the group lectured, taught cooking classes and presented an elegant six-course dinner at Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts.

Located in downtown Napa, Copia is the brainchild of winemaker Robert Mondavi. He teamed with other food and wine visionaries, such as Julia Child, to create a public institution dedicated to the discovery, understanding and celebration of food, wine and the arts.

Others on the San Diego team included Tom Atkins (J. Taylor's), Stephen Window (Roppongi), Tom Dowling (Rancho Bernardo Inn), Paul McCabe (Top of the Cove) and Riko Bartolome (The Grille at Maderas). The response was overwhelming. The weekend events were sold out and the impression San Diego chefs made — especially in an area where they think pretty highly of food — will kick San Diego’s national image as a culinary destination up a few more notches.

Although a few of us oenophiles/foodie/chef groupies arrived in the San Francisco area a few days early to partake in wine tastings and farm tours, the chefs arrived in Napa on Friday, Sept. 20, in time to receive their products, which were shipped overnight, and to prep for their classes.

On Saturday, Guillas, McCabe and Dowling gave an informative tomato tasting, featuring fruits hand-picked from Copia’s impeccably cultivated, abundant organic garden. From the center’s demonstration kitchen, the trio performed a tag team-style show that included growing tips, preservation methods and recipes. In the afternoon, Atkins, Bartolome and Windows demonstrated “Northern Halibut with Spiced Garbanzo Hummus and Fuji Apple Chutney.” The standing-room-only crowd was treated to a tasting portion of the dish, paired with a 2000 Joseph Phelps Viognier.

That night, the group oversaw a fabulous dinner, served al fresco, in the Copia Olive Grove. Those who were fortunate enough to make their reservations early, mostly members of the Copia Center and local press, enjoyed a six-course meal. Each course was prepared by a different member of the team and specially paired with a wine.

The crowd dined among illuminated olive trees and a full summer moon. The warm air was filled with the sweet smell of plump cabernet grapes that were to be harvested the next day. This is the most exciting time to be in Napa — the “crushing season.” Everyone was in a buzz.

McCabe’s “Amuse Bouche” (amusement of the palate) was spectacular. Seared foie gras, carmelized mango and brioche was paired with a 2000 Three Rivers Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, Walla Walla, Wash.

Next up was Bartolome’s “Mirin Spiced Tartare of Baby Baja Abalone.” It was served on the shell with melon and verbena ice and black pepper melon water. The elected companion wine was the 2001 Clos Pegase Sauvignon Blanc, Mitsuko’s Vineyard, Carneros.

The fish course was presented by Roppongi’s Window. The halibut dish he had demonstrated at the afternoon class was reprised to perfection, finished with a lemon-basil infused coconut broth. It was beautifully paired with a 2000 Joseph Phelps Viognier.

Guillas presented the entrée, “Cape Gooseberry Glazed Black Buck Antelope Chop.” Guillas, McCabe and Dowling also demonstrated this dish to attendees on Sunday, and it was a huge hit.

The cheese course, “Fourme d’ Ambert Blue Cheese Marjolaine,” served with Zante black currant port marmalade, brought hushed oohs and aahs. Dowling’s masterpiece was accompanied by a 2000 Dr. Parcé Banyuls, Rimage, France.

The meal ended on a high note as Akins, who I later found out began his career as a pastry chef, presented his “Grilled California Summer Nectarines, Candied Almonds and Peach Sabayon.” It was paired with a 2000 Navarro Late Harvest Riesling, Anderson Valley.

It was a superb evening. After a huge ovation, the chefs spent the remainder of the evening mingling with guests, including San Diegans Sami Ladeki, Pamela Wischkaemper, Judi Strada and Joe Timpko.

I spent two days enjoying Copia, its exhibits, cooking demonstrations, wine appreciation tastings, garden tours and its fabulous restaurant, Julia’s Kitchen. A portion of Child’s original home kitchen, complete with clapboard wall and her copper pot collection is on permanent display. Copia is located at 500 First St. in Napa. For more information, look them up at www.copia.org.