|
Big Night Out
Credit an extensive remodel late last year and the appointment of Paul McCabe as executive chef. Top of the Cove’s more contemporary, product-driven cuisine now rivals any of the trendier rooms in town. McCabe, 34, originally from Sedona, Ariz., began his culinary career at L’Ermitage in Los Angeles working under renowned chef Michel Blanchet. There, McCabe learned the basics of French technique that so strongly influence his work at Top of the Cove today. While the “Cold Smoked Bison Carpaccio” ($16) is indeed a cold dish, its name refers to the cold-smoking method. The game is placed on the upper shelf of an airtight, 50-degree refrigerator. Mesquite chips are ignited, quickly put out, then placed in the lower half of the refrigerator. This one-hour process is repeated three times to create the 1/16th of an inch smoky ring around the outside of the carpaccio to give it a fabulously deep flavor. The carpaccio is served with deep-fried capers, caper berries, burgundy amaranth micro-greens and a toasted brioche crouton. The amaranth, which was once thought of as nothing more than a simple weed in the United States, has a delicious, slightly sweet flavor that adds a beautiful deep purple color to the dish. I generally have between very little and no will power at all when it comes to foie gras, and this time was no exception. McCabe’s “Seared Foie Gras” ($22) was exceptional. A 3-ounce (we’re talkin’ wallet-sized) slab of Hudson Valley foie gras is pan seared and served over a caramelized mango with a reduction of shallot, ginger and pureed mango, finished with a bit of veal demi-glace. He serves the liver with fresh red currants, still on the stem. Not only do they add great color and texture to the plate, the acidity of the currants is a wonderful contrast to the fatty richness of the foie gras. Don’t miss the “Slow Roasted Beets” ($7). Locally grown organic red beets are roasted and diced, then blended with red onion, tarragon, an 8-year-old balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. The beets are placed in a ramekin or mold and served “stacked” style over thinly sliced deep-golden yellow beets with a warm goat cheese and a ciabatta crouton. Top of the Cove 1216 Prospect Street • La Jolla (858) 454-7779 I was treated to a surprise special of the evening when McCabe sent out a tasting of an off-menu dish called “Parmesan Risotto with Summer White Truffle.” He spares no expense on this dish. Rather than using standard Arborio rice, he uses a top-of-the-line risotto imported from Italy. It is cooked with chicken stock, butter, salt and pepper and finished with white truffle oil and fresh parmesan. As the dish was placed in front of me, the waiter revealed a doorknob-sized white truffle wrapped in a white napkin (touching the truffle with his hands would cause it to begin to spoil). He shaved off a very generous portion of this rare, prized and very expensive fungus over the risotto. The truffle’s earthy, woody, dirty, garlicky aroma and flavor nearly overcame me. One can only follow a dish of such organic magnificence with game, so I ordered the “Molasses Seared Elk” ($33). Two 3-ounce medallions are seared to a perfect medium rare and served over grilled sweet potato slices with braised ultra heirloom spinach. Seared, grilled, braised — all in one dish. I can envision McCabe back in the kitchen almost like a maestro, the hot pans, flames and white towels in synchrony as he directs his staff through the many steps and processes of each preparation. The “Tamarind Glazed Maple Leaf Duck Breast” ($28), rich in flavor, wonderfully spiced and finished with a blood orange and pomegranate emulsion, also was an excellent follow-up to the truffle risotto. The desserts are house made and hold up well to the high standards of the earlier courses. The 80-page wine list is stellar. Its offerings range from a simple California Chardonnay to a highly sought-after collectible Bordeaux. Either would make a fine companion to McCabe’s grand cuisine. — Terryl Gavre
|
Home | Info | Cover Story | About Us | Back Issues | Search
As Top of the Cove marks its 50th anniversary this month, owner Ron Zappardino has much more to raise his glass to than merely hitting the half century mark. The La Jolla bungalow-cum-restaurant, which Zappardino purchased in 1983, along with its intimate dining room and gasp-worthy views, has slowly transformed itself from a “special evening out” restaurant, aka “the prom-proposal plague,” to an any occasion fine eatery.