San Diego Metropolitan - Downtown Dining

The cluster of restaurants that make up The Aventine, located adjacent to the Hyatt Hotel just off Interstate 5 at La Jolla Village Drive in University Towne Centre, is always bustling. It boasts some of the best-looking white-collar clientele in town. In my younger days, I spent many an evening sitting on the patio at one of the eateries with my gal friends, our heads on a swivel as we took in the whole valet parking and bar hopping “scene.”

While Café Japengo has remained a permanent fixture, the other spaces have been home to many interesting, yet not sustainable venues. Paparazzi, P.J. Wolf, Lips, Pasquale, Kiva Grill and, most remarkably, Palomino Euro-Bistro, have all come and gone, making way for folks like Fleming’s Steak House and, most recently, Aquarella, the highly anticipated latest venture of Michael McGeath (who brought us Fio’s and Trattoria Acqua).

After a three-month remodel of the former Palomino space, McGeath with his wife and business partner, Victoria, quietly opened Aquarella Mexican Grill. In the time since, Aquarella has been steadily building its business to a quiet roar — almost equivalent to that made by the oversized handcrafted fireplace on the restaurant’s beautiful entryway patio.

While the main components are still in place (kitchen, bar, restrooms), the restaurant bears little resemblance to the former host. “Victoria had a field day,” says McGeath, who gives her complete interior design credit. As one walks through the space the color on the thick, hand-plastered walls goes from mango to papaya and back again. Details such as doorways brought up from Mexican ruins, the fresco-style painting above the open kitchen and choices of both traditional and contemporary Mexican art demonstrate Victoria’s talent for design.

The cuisine is that of Mexico City as well as Baja California, with a strong emphasis on local ingredients. The Cantina menu, offered in the bar and on the patio, features a strong selection of appetizers, as well as “Platos Tradicional” such as chile rellenos stuffed with a variety of fillings, tamales, tacos, flautas and quesadillas. The “Poblano Chile Stuffed with Crabmeat and Jack Cheese” ($10.50) is richly good and the “Camarones Fritos” served with an orange, mustard and jalapeño aioli is a great choice.

In the dining room, things are a bit dressier — white tablecloths and lots of candles give the room a romantic glow. The “Entradas,” “Sopas” and “Ensaladas” sections of the menu are almost a repeat of the cantina menu, but chef Damaso Lee (who is also executive chef at Trattoria Acqua) gets serious on the entrée selections. The menu is divided into three sections: “Mar,” from the sea; “Tierra,” on land; and “Cielo,” from the air. The “Camarones Puerto de Gaymas” ($19.95) is spectacular. Hunky gulf shrimp are flambéed with Mico tequila, scattered around a costena rice and black bean timbale and served with a chipotle cream sauce that is worth every calorie. On another visit, I asked for a side of it just to drizzle on my rice. My favorite dish on both visits was the “Huachinendo al Mojo de Ajo.” ($19.95). Mesquite grilled red snapper is served with a browned garlic butter sauce, achiote-herb marinated costena rice, black beans and tomatillo-avocado salsa.

Chef Lee offers a half dozen meat dishes; the portions are generous and the flavors are gutsy. A peppercorn-crusted Black Angus New York steak with mushroom-ancho sauce served with chive whipped potatoes, mesquite grilled baby lamb chops or “Carnitas Yucatan” ($15.95) which are served with black beans, rice, housemade guacamole and fresh corn tortillas, are all well prepared and beautifully presented.

All of Aquarella’s desserts are made in-house; whatever you do (especially if you’re with a group) order the “Dessert Nachos” — they’re a riot. The chef uses deep-fried flour (instead or corn) tortillas, sprinkles them with cinnamon and sugar topped with vanilla, chocolate and pistachio ice cream, they are drizzled with chocolate syrup and topped with dried cherries and whipped cream. They look just like the real cheesy deal and are a lot of fun.

OK, OK, so these days I’ve got a spouse and a couple of kids with me and it’s 7 p.m. not 10 p.m., but I’m sitting in front of the cozy fireplace on Aquarella’s patio, I’ve still got my margarita, and yes, my head’s still on a swivel — I’ve got to keep track of the kids.