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Sampling Ladeki’s New Fresh
It was an overeater’s fantasy. Fabulous food arrived at our table for hours. As chefs Window and Moogk were carefully noting recipes and specs, Ladeki and I were caught up in the adrenaline rush that overcomes a restaurateur upon the realization of a potential hit. Although the interior design was yet undetermined and the restaurant name not chosen, one thing was for sure, the most important component of a successful eatery was already in place — the chef. To bring life into the old space Ladeki is banking on and bankrolling 25-year-old Matthew Zappoli, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and an alumnus of the Charlie Palmer Group. On my next visit, a little more than two months later, I was amazed at the transformation. The whimsical, bright, and almost too cheery Tamarindo had been reincarnated into an elegant, soft and sensuous room with curved lines and inviting booths. The interior is accented by beautiful works of original art which are organic in nature and are a wonderful complement to the stone floors, fabric pendant lamps and earth-toned textiles, which drape the ceiling. The menu items are grouped into several categories. Select from the “Starters,” “Salads” or “Raw Bar” for a great first course. The “Crisp Battered Prawns” ($14.95) are a study in the art of delicate deep-frying. Hunky U-10’s are butterflied and dipped in a tempura-like (flour and cornstarch) batter. Quickly deep-fried to a buttery brown and served atop baby greens lightly tossed in Meyer lemon vinaigrette, these are tasty little buggers. The “Maine Lobster Napoleon” ($17) is an artful construction of rich, creamy lobster tidbits tossed with a dab of mayo, Dijon, lemon and lemon oil, layered between thin housemade potato chips. This tower-like structure is topped with a fancy mâche “hat” and garnished with a dollop of citrus cream. FRESH 1044 Wall St. • La Jolla (858) 551-7575 I also loved the “Red Crimson Pear Salad” ($7.75). A port wine-poached pear is topped with mixed baby greens, blue cheese and ver jus vinaigrette. An entrée standout is the “Monkfish Osso Buco and Steamed Lobster” ($19.75). The fish is cut across the tail so that the meat surrounds the bone, hence the Osso Buco reference. It is sautéed, then roasted and served alongside a steamed half lobster atop a simple well-mashed potato and finished with a chive red lobster reduction pan sauce. Although the focus of Fresh is seafood, one shouldn’t overlook the “Land” offerings. The “Crisp Roast Chicken” ($15.75) is worth telling your friends, co-workers and even those neighbors with the yappy dog about. A whole free-range chicken is split, sautéed skin-side down ’till nice and brown and then finished with a quick roasting in a good hot oven. It is served over a fragrant wood ear mushroom risotto with a creamy rich flavor that gives new meaning to the word earthy. Zappoli also oversees the housemade desserts that are prepared daily. Have the “Apple Tart a la Mode” or the “Selection of Artisan Cheeses.” Better yet, put a little meat on your bones and have both, like I did. — Terryl Gavre
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My maiden visit to Fresh was on a Monday afternoon in December accompanied by Sami Ladeki and his corporate chefs, Stephen Window and Jeff Moogk, for a pre-opening tasting. Ladeki had decided months earlier that he would close his nuevo latino restaurant, Tamarindo, at the end of the year. It would be back to the drawing board for the creator of such successes as Sammy’s Woodfired Pizza and Roppongi.