In a city where utilitarian Mexican restaurants (and taco shops) are plentiful, many Mexican restaurants and eateries in San Diego prepare dishes that stand out from the rest.
The following culinary creations, among my personal favorites, are not just to be enjoyed once a year on Cinco de Mayo (very gringo-like), but should be at the top of your dining adventure list for anytime.
Medallones al Cilantro
El Callejon
345 First St. • Encinitas
I fell in love with the Medallones al Cilantro on my first visit to El Callejon more than eight years ago and since have never ordered anything else. Beef medallions are pounded out thin and cooked in a buttery, slightly salty cilantro sauce. They are topped with ranchero cheese and a “tower” of seasoned rice and served with hot tortillas for taco making. Ask for the condiments (fresh onion, limes and cilantro), and I recommend the flour tortillas, as they are superior to the corn, which tend to be a bit dry. ($15.75)
Sea Bass Tenochtitlan
El Agave Tequileria
2304 San Diego Ave. • Old Town
Although it’s not the greatest location (perched above a liquor store) in Old Town, El Agave is perpetually packed with Mexican cuisine aficionados. The Sea Bass Tenochtitlan is a study in juxtaposition. Magnificently mild sea bass is perfectly cooked and served over a pungent prune and chile sauce. This dark and rich, mole-ish masterpiece is served with herbed rice, vegetables and house-made corn tortillas. ($22.25)
Crema de Frijole a la Cerveza
Candelas
416 Third Ave. • Downtown
This elegant Gaslamp eatery offers some of the finest Mexico City style “haute cuisine” in the city. This brazenly bold black bean soup or Crema de Frijole a la Cerveza, is made with rich chicken stock, dark Mexican beer, onions and bacon. It is accented with chile pasilla, which lends its mild smoky flavor well, making this a superior soup not to be missed. ($5.95)
Pollo Huitlacoche and Tamale Soup
Gringo’s Cocina Y Cantina
4474 Mission Blvd. • Pacific Beach
Executive Chef Victor Jimenez explores the best in cuisine from Baja Mexico, the Central Plateau, Pacific Coast and Yucatan Peninsula. The Pollo Huitlacoche (hweet-la-KO-chay) will bring you back to this contemporary neighborhood Mexican eatery again and again. A free-range chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and fresh corn is finished with a huitlacoche demi-glace. Huitlacoche, known as the Mexican truffle, is a fungus that grows in corn and offers a sweet, smoky, earthy flavor to dishes. This addictive dish is served with a homemade corn tamale. ($12.95)
Sometimes I wake up thinking about Tamale Soup. In this spin-off of traditional Tortilla Soup, the chef finishes it with a thickening of masa flour that adds a subtle corn flavor and extra thick smoothness to this already flavorful chicken-based dish.
Pescado al la Naranja
Casa Guadalajara
4105 Taylor St. • Old Town
Executive Chef Jose Duran won first place in the Ensenada International Seafood Fair with this house specialty, Pescado al la Naranja. Hunky sea bass is grilled with a sauce of fresh orange juice, cilantro, butter and green olives. This light, flavorful Mediterranean-style dish is served with black beans and homemade tortillas. ($14.95)
Menudo
Valentines
844 Market St. • Downtown
Long touted as the hangover cure, menudo is especially popular on New Year’s Day. This hearty and spicy stew is sometimes hard for us gringos to get used to as it is made with tripe and calf’s feet (taste it with your eyes closed and you’ll love it), green chiles, hominy and spices. An over-sized bowl with chopped onions, cilantro, limes and dried oregano is served for sprinkling. ($4.95)
