China Doll Executive Chef Joseph Babcock with his decadent “Lobster Indochine.” (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Even before walking into China Doll, I had a special affection for the space. Years ago it was home to one of my favorite eateries of all time, Madeo. That was more than a decade ago and the memory of the penne gorgonzola has all but faded, but I hope China Doll does well.

China Doll is located on the corner of Columbia and C streets on the ground floor of the Emerald Plaza building. Floor-to-ceiling industrial beads drape the entryway and a wall of fire — three levels of oil-fueled candles — divides the bar area from the dining area.

The room is dark, even at lunch, something I am appreciating more as I get older. Red fabric and beaded pendant lamps hang over fabric-draped tables and dark green fabric envelops armed chairs.

The menu, described by executive chef Joseph Babcock as “fusion,” is essentially Asian, with a few French preparations thrown in for fun. Start with appetizers like “Crab Rangoon” ($9) or “Wild Mushroom Potstickers” ($8) and you won’t be disappointed.

I dined at China Doll twice in three days (it’s a tough job, I know) and both times started with the “Pepper Oysters” ($9) and loved them. Six cold-water oysters are dredged in a batter of cornstarch, flour, black and white pepper, then fried tempura style and served on the half shell over a cucumber, wasabi vinaigrette. I also couldn’t resist the “Barbecued Spare Ribs” ($8) on either occasion. The fact is, I am a big rib eater from way back, and because my first experience was so fabulous, I had them again on the second. Baby pork ribs, seven to an order, are marinated overnight in olive oil, soy, ginger and sugar. They are then slow-roasted while covered with foil, which makes them bone-tender.

The “Barbecued Salmon” ($21) is fabulous. Seven to eight ounces of fresh Atlantic salmon is brushed with a sauce of honey, miso, soy sauce and sugar and grilled to a perfect medium-rare. It is served on a bed of woked vegetables consisting of a medley of green beans, baby bok choy, broccoli and pea pods quickly cooked over very high heat with peanut oil, soy and sake.

I will return to China Doll over and over again just to have the “Shanghai Beef” ($26). A seven-ounce New York strip is marinated in olive oil, black pepper and soy sauce. It is grilled and cut into medallions and served with crispy potato sticks (very thin frites) and a creamy mustard vinaigrette. Order a side of “Crispy Spinach” ($5), spinach that has been quickly fried over extremely hot heat until it becomes crunchy, and you’ve got a perfect combination.

For the really indulgent, I recommend the “Lobster Indochine” ($32). A one and one-half to 2-pound Pacific lobster is split and seared meat side down, then finished with a coconut, curry and plum wine sauce. It comes with the crispy spinach so I would recommend a side of the steamed jasmine rice to complete the meal. It’s $3 extra, and at these prices I think they should throw it in, but I’m not one to deny myself over three bucks either.

Desserts are all housemade with the peanut butter cheesecake not to be missed. The bar offers some interesting specialty martinis made with sake, a trendy alternative to vodka these days.

— Terryl Gavre