Chef Larry Vigil with Osetra the Fish House’s specialty, the ‘Hand Roll Menage.’ The three miniature ‘cornucopias’ are presented on a stainless steel holder that makes it appear as if they are floating in midair. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

OK, so these Gaslamp Quarter restaurant guys spent almost two years getting this place open. If it wasn’t a construction snafu, it was a permitting problem — lemme tell ya, most every restaurant owner has been there.

Finally, around the first of July, Osetra the Fish House opened. If the form of the name sounds familiar, a bit Greystone the Steakhouse-ish, it is because two of the principal owners in Osetra are Alex Minutella and Vincenzo LoVerso, also owners at Greystone the Steakhouse and Oseteria Panevino. Other well-known investor/owners at Osetra are Jimmy DiMatteo, owner of Jimmy Love’s and Bruce Bochy, manager of the San Diego Padres.

These heavy hitters join forces to bring Gaslamp diners a large-scale luxury seafood restaurant serving top-shelf seafood and top-shelf prices. Although the two-story restaurant offers both downstairs and mezzanine dining, the lower level of Osetra is mostly bar.

The lounge area offers cushy blue chairs for cocktailing and the marble-top bar is lined with stools for drinking and dining as well. The most striking feature of the restaurant’s interior design is a 7,000-bottle, two-story, glass wine tower that forms the restaurant’s core. Those of you familiar with Las Vegas restaurant

Aureole may correctly surmise that its wine tower served as the inspiration for Osetra’s.

Throughout the evening diners will notice young fetching women fetching wine by traveling up and down (via an electronic cable and hoist system) the elevator. Now I know this is supposed to be sexy, and maybe to some it is, but I couldn’t help being reminded of window washers (sans the squeegee, of course).

Executive Chef Larry Vigil, who comes from Las Vegas after having cooked around at some of the best kitchens there, including Andre’s in downtown Las Vegas, is in charge of the kitchen. The menu is lengthy and comprehensive, even including a nice selection of meat, like an 8-ounce “Kobe New York Steak” (which is market priced), “Colorado Lamb Chops” ($38) and “Sautéed Veal Chops” ($38) for those of you who may not be seafood friendly.

A selection of Petrossian caviars leads off the menu. They are served by the ounce accompanied by crostini, blini, capers, crème fraîche, egg yolk, egg whites, chives and minced red onion. A small selection of oysters served by the half-dozen with a choice of sauces for dipping also is offered.

The “Hand Roll Menage” ($15) was exquisite. Three miniature “cornucopias” of nori are filled, one each with Maine lobster, crab and spicy ahi tuna. They are presented on a fabulous stainless steel holder that serves them as if they were floating in midair.

The “Osetra Lobster Salad” ($18) is a nice middle course. Lobster is lumped and mixed with a chive remoulade, then served over sliced tomatoes, avocado and mango salsa.

For an entrée, I had the “Osetra Ahi Tuna Roll” ($34). Pan seared with a wasabi soy glaze, it was served the size of a stuffed burrito. I did enjoy it, but must admit that even I had trouble finishing it.

Desserts are housemade and well done. The wine list is lengthy and a few values are to be had for the discerning.

Osetra is Downtown’s new “top gun.” (Di Matteo was a Navy fighter pilot.) Owned by three big boys of the Downtown restaurant scene, it is a big space with big, beautiful interiors and the food is big flavors, big ingredients and big prices.

Make it a big evening.

— Terryl Gavre