Star of the Sea chef Paul McCabe with the “Trio of Tartare,” which includes salmon, scallop and ahi tuna tartars. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

I used to cringe when my out-of-town guests would ask, “Where can we get some great seafood on the water?” It’s a perfectly reasonable request since, after all, we are in San Diego on the tip of the country’s connection to the Pacific Ocean. Yet, for many years, the chances of finding a good seafood restaurant on the waterfront were slim to none.

Thankfully, that has changed. Thanks to the Star of the Sea, skippered by Paul McCabe as executive chef, I now can quite enthusiastically make a recommendation. The landmark restaurant was completely gutted and remodeled four years ago. The dining room was opened up and given two levels to take advantage of the full waterfront view. The room is comprised mostly of sleek booths lined with custom-made fabric with curvy settees to match. White “sails” flank the ceiling adding a layer of texture to the space while keeping the room’s noise level to a low buzz.

Paul McCabe took over as executive chef seven months ago when Brian Johnston left to take one of those “cakey corporate chef jobs” to which chefs with kids and mortgage payments are drawn. McCabe was trained in Sedona, Ariz., and has worked in some of the country’s best dining rooms. He most recently did a two-year stint as executive chef at La Jolla’s Top o’ the Cove where he made a name for himself, won some awards and cultivated a faithful local following.

The menu, which is mostly seafood, offers about a dozen “first course” selections and 10 “main course” items.

Oysters on the half shell, caviar service and a chilled seafood platter headline the starter list.

The “Trio of Tartare” ($13) is strikingly presented on a long, thin white bone china plate. Salmon, scallop and ahi tuna tartars are each paired with a housemade cracker and garnished with a shaved fennel salad and a seaweed salad. The crisp, clean salads are a nice contrast to the buttery, soft and mellow-flavored tartars.

I practically had to wrestle the “Seared Foie Gras” ($18) we were supposed to share away from my dining companion, Jennifer. She, being six months pregnant, latched on to it and I didn’t have the heart to ask for it back after managing to get a few small bites. A hunky slab of foie gras is quickly seared in a very hot pan and served atop a butter-soaked brioche crouton. It is topped with an onion and apple relish and chive microgreens. A butternut-maple flan rides shotgun.

The “Slow Roasted Beet Salad” ($10) is beautifully presented. Diced purple beets, tossed with shaved red onions, balsamic vinegar and goat cheese, are shaped in a timbale and served atop a bed of sliced golden beets. The tender root vegetables are served with a soupçon of fresh tarragon — a perfect flavor match.

Among the entrées is a fish for every taste. Wild king salmon from Oregon, locally caught swordfish, seared ahi tuna and sautéed onaga are just a few of McCabe’s offerings. I thoroughly enjoyed the “Roasted Monkfish” ($28) served with truffled fingerling potatoes (what’s not to like?). The 10-ounce piece of fish was perfectly cooked and served resting on a bed of sautéed mustard greens.

By this time in the meal, Jennifer was a little “fished out” so she ordered the “Duo of Beef” ($38). A petite Niman Ranch filet mignon is paired with braised short ribs and served with roasted bone marrow along with some sea salt for sprinkling. The filet was nicely grilled and the short ribs were sweet, sticky and tender as they should be.

Desserts are housemade and beautifully executed for a strong finish to a fabulous meal.