San Diego Metropolitan Magazine

‘I saw a werewolf drinking a piña colada at Trader Vic’s. His hair was perfect,’

— Warren Zevon

Executive Chef Jonathan Hale of Mr. Tiki Mai Tai Lounge takes a break to recommend the Poke Platter (ahi poke, spicy scallops, citrus salmon, ocean salad, and taro chips) and Mr Tiki’s Canoe (sampling of Kona crab cake, Thai curry calamari and grass skirt shrimp). He suggests washing it all down with the Killa Kilaeu, a mai tai for two. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Every morning on my ride to Dewey Junior High School, “Werewolves of London” would play over the fuzzy-sounding speakers of my school bus. Although I had no idea what the song was about (and still don’t for that matter), I was captivated by the line about Trader Vic’s, so much so that years later when I traveled to Los Angeles, I made it a point to go check it out.

I fell in love with the concept — Hawaiian/Polynesian. How fun. Pu pu platters, coconut shrimp and mai tais — who wouldn’t?

Experts say everything runs in cycles: fashion, hairstyles and even food. I think they may be right, especially if any conclusions can be drawn from the fact that I wore hip huggers in junior high and here I am wearing them again, only this time in Mr. Tiki’s Mai Tai Lounge. What perfect timing for the newest venture from the legendary San Diego restaurateurs, David and Leslie Cohn.

The Cohns took over the former Fio’s space at Fifth Avenue and F Street late last year and after a fabulous remodel opened this updated version of the old “Trader” concept last month.

The interior is just plain fun. Grass mats line the walls, hand-blown glass floats and blowfish lights hang from the ceiling. Looping surf movies play on flat-screen-monitors, while Polynesian-style music is piped throughout the restaurant.

We started with the “Killa Kilauea” mai tai for two ($15). It came in one of those big ceramic tiki glasses along with those hard-to-handle, 2-foot-long red straws. We felt a bit silly, two girls drinking from a giant mai tai, but it was fun. If the mai tai is not your drink, Mr. Tiki’s drink menu offers two pages of other specialty drinks.

Since we wanted everything from the pu pu menu and couldn’t decide, we ordered the “Mr. Tiki Canoe” ($21) which offers a sampling of crab cakes, Thai curry calamari and “grass skirt” tempura shrimp. All three were delicious and were served with fantastic dipping sauces.

A “Dim Sum an’ Den Sum” section offers more plates designed for sharing: crab wontons served with a sweet mustard sauce, a Peking duck egg roll with a sour plum sauce and the steamed “bao-bao” buns. While they’re all great choices, I especially loved the buns. They come filled with delicious barbecue duck and are served with hoisin sauce.

Mr. Tiki has a sushi bar that offers not only all the traditional nigiri style and sushi-style favorites, but also offers a few “house” rolls, along with everybody’s favorite California or caterpillar roll.

Executive Chef Jonathan Hale, who lived in Hawaii for eight years and served as executive chef at A Pacific Café in Maui, offers about a dozen entrées ranging from a clean “Misoyaki Seared Salmon Nigiri Style” ($17) to a robust “Big Island Grilled Flat Iron Steak” ($22) with roasted sweet potatoes, sautéed mushrooms and green peppercorn sauce. “Garlic Shrimp Stir Fry” ($18) is served with chow fun noodles and Asian vegetables. It is a large portion and makes a great side dish for sharing.

Although it will be difficult, save room for dessert. The house specialty is a “dessert tree” ($20), which is great for sharing. It’s a “tree” of six different desserts, including a key lime pie, rocky road mousse, crème brulée, a black forest brulée, just to name a few.

Mr. Tiki is another 21 and up venue (like Gaslamp Strip Club) so secure a sitter and get a group of friends together. This is a fun place to dine.