San Diego Metropolitan Magazine

At the South Park Bar and Grill, wings fly off the grill of Executive Chef Eric Wilburn. Crispy Crab Cakes and Mom's Meatloaf with tangy barbeque gravy. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Neighborhood dining is not strong in San Diego, particularly compared to big cities like New York and San Francisco. Still, a few neighborhood spots, here and there, not only fit the description, they offer noteworthy fare. One such eatery is South Park Bar and Grill.

Opened not quite a year ago, it is just north of Downtown and just south of North Park, in a pretty little up-and-coming area the locals call “South Park.” While some streets are still awaiting makeovers, others are lined with trees and rows of Craftsman houses with white picket fences. It is a neighborhood where young couples buy fixer-uppers and make them into the stuff of Sunset magazine photo spreads and where neighbors like to walk to the corner restaurant for a bite to eat after work.

Located on the corner of 30th and Grape streets, South Park Bar and Grill is in good company. It is just a few doors down from The Big Kitchen, another neighborhood eatery and a veritable breakfast dining institution.

The interior is simple — dark tables and chairs with tan walls and dark wood trim. A dark wood bar sits toward the back of the dining room with a stage toward the front. Live music is featured on weekends and from what my server told me, the owner sings on Saturday nights (which could be either a good or bad thing — but I’ve heard he’s actually pretty good).

Executive Chef Eric Wilburn, most recently executive sous chef at the U.S. Grant, offers a menu chock-full of typical “neighborhood eatery” fare. The starters are unpretentious in name (mozzarella sticks, crab cakes and buffalo wings), but solid in preparation. I had been told by several people that the buffalo wings were particularly good, and their popularity was confirmed the night I dined there. I watched order after order go out to tables. They come either “spicy” or “nuclear,” and are served on a bed of thin french fries with housemade blue cheese dip.

A nice variety of salads is listed on the menu, with the chef offering all today’s trendy varieties: Caesar, Southwest Salad (with corn and black beans) and an Asian Salad (with cashews, water chestnuts, sprouts and sweet and spicy dressing). I thoroughly enjoyed every bite of the “Field Salad” ($8.95), baby greens tossed with Zinfandel-poached pears, hunks of creamy Roquefort, candied pecans and balsamic dressing.

Entrée prices are modest, ranging from $12.95 (“Spicy Chicken Pasta”) to $18.95 (“Sesame Crusted Ahi” and “Grilled Ribeye”). I really enjoyed “Mom’s Meatloaf” ($14.95), which also happens to be one of the most popular dishes on the menu. A hunky slab of tender, thick-sliced meatloaf is glazed with homemade barbecue sauce and served teetering on a bed of garlic-mashed potatoes. This dish is comfort food at its best.

Next time you’re in “the neighborhood,” drop in South Park Bar and Grill, at least for a wing or two.