Not to be missed at Del Mar Rendezvous is Chef Mark Sun’s ‘Kung Pao Sirloin Steak.’ (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Every now and then I get a hankerin’ for some good Chinese food. Lucky for us in the suburbs, the folks who brought us the Dumpling Inn on Convoy Street and China Fun in Carmel Mountain Ranch opened just such a restaurant a few months ago in the Del Mar Plaza.

Del Mar Rendezvous took over the former Johnny Rockets space on the street level of the Plaza. The space, which is long and skinny, seats 65 people and is tastefully decorated. The room has a Zen-like ambience (salt and pepper shakers that look like polished stones and tiny white twinkle lights illuminating the ceiling), but the atmosphere is not what one would call “calming.” The windowed exhibition kitchen ensures that the clanking woks over open flames and the “buzz and hum” of the kitchen staff keep the restaurant’s energy high and vibrant.

I suggest sampling several of the “Asian Tapas” to start, and if you arrive weekdays before 6 p.m., they’re half-price for happy hour. Knowing that these folks specialize in dumplings, or at least they should if you’re going to call their restaurant the Dumpling Inn, we made sure to try the “Steamed Pork Dumplings” ($8). Six purse-shaped dumplings filled with minced pork and perfectly steamed are presented in a bamboo steamer. They are served with a traditional dipping sauce made from rice vinegar, soy sauce and chili paste and are indeed good enough to name a restaurant after.

I was particularly enamored of the “Honey Glazed Spare Ribs” ($9). Even though only four come in an order, they’re of good size and the meat is so tender it just plum falls off the bone. They are sweet, very smoky and leave a lingering taste of Chinese five spice on your tongue.

The “Chicken Lettuce Wraps” ($8) are similar to those at P.F. Chang but cost a third less. The minced chicken is nicely spiced, tender and served with crispy, cold iceberg lettuce cups. Since they’re not served with a sauce, I asked for some soy, Chinese hot mustard and chili paste and made my own.

Executive Chef Mark Sun makes fabulous soups and offers Egg Flower and Hot and Sour by the cup or bowl. The Seaweed Tofu Egg Flower Soup, Spicy Seafood Soup and the Wor Wonton Soup all come by the bowl only.

All entrées are served and plated individually but you can order family style as well. I suggest going family style so that you can experience as many flavors as possible.

The “Kung Pao Sirloin Steak” ($14) is not to be missed. Thin-sliced and quickly wok-seared with a spicy kung pao sauce, it’s finished with crushed peanuts and served with lo mein noodles.

Whatever else you order, make sure you try the “Sesame Jumbo Scallops” ($18). Almost a dozen scallops the size of Dove Bars are coated in a light flour and quickly woked in a sticky caramelized ginger soy glaze. They are sprinkled with sesame seeds and served over a scoop of steamed white rice and garnished with green onions.

Although the “Dan Dan Noodles” ($7) are listed with the tapas we ordered them as a side dish with our meal. They are served warm with a slightly spicy nutty dressing.

Prices are about a buck over moderate, portions are fair, not huge, but good for sharing. Rendezvous is a great addition to the Del Mar Plaza dining scene.

— Terryl Gavre