Edition: April 2005




 Dining Reviews

 Downtown Dining


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Crazy About Chloe
Downtown’s new gathering place
for gourmets, artists and bon vivants






Katie Grebow, chef at Café Chloe, with ‘Mussels with Frites.’ (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

OK, let’s get this straight right off the bat. It’s not just me. These days, it seems that just about everyone is crazy about Café Chloe. This little gem of an eatery, which opened late last year on the corner of Ninth Avenue and G Street, is the love child of Alison McGrath, John Klute and their partner, Tami Ratcliffe. The trio is responsible for the charming European bistro-style interior design and, along with sizzling hot young chef Katie Grebow, for the menu.

The owners completely gutted and combined two retail spaces to create the restaurant and, working within the confines of its structural limitations and the building codes, did a darn good job of making the space work. It is a little disjointed, but it really only affects the kitchen staff. The kitchen is divided into two spaces and the cooks are continually running back and forth with product.

All new floor-to-ceiling storefront windows were installed so diners sitting in the front dining room would have a street-side view of the comings and goings of the East Village.

Grebow, a graduate of the Le Cordon Bleu School at Pasadena, worked at RICE at the Hotel W prior to becoming opening executive chef at Chloe. She offers a petite menu of contemporary versions of all of your bistro favorites.

Although I try and resist it so I can try something new, I always wind up ordering her “Bistro Salad” ($9.50). It is often called a Salade Lyonnaise and her version consists of the tender leaves of curly endive and frisee tossed in a light vinaigrette with pancetta. Soft brioche croutons the size of jumbo marshmallows are buttered, grilled and folded into the salad, which is then topped with a warm soft-poached egg. Those first few bites after the egg is broken and the creamy yolk is soaked up into the crouton closely resemble nirvana.

Another heavenly moment is Grebow’s “Savory Custard” ($7), served with toast and greens. Imagine a bleu cheese brûlée, soft, creamy and warm, served with thin-sliced toasted walnut bread. It’s simple, delicious and makes a great first or second course (the plates are small, designed for tasting and sharing).

I’ve also enjoyed the “Mussels with Frites” ($13) on more than one occasion. Green Lip mussels are steamed in Chardonnay with shallots, garlic and saffron and served with salty frites and saffron aioli for dipping. Be sure to ask for some of Chloe’s delicious French white bread (from Sadie Rose Bakery) to soak up every last drop of broth.


Café Chloe

Although it is unlikely her chef would have predicted it when constructing the menu, one of the house favorites has become the “Macaroni, Pancetta and Gorgonzola Gratin” ($11). Need I say more? It is macaroni and cheese with bacon and Gorgonzola cheese baked in a casserole dish and served bubbling hot to your table.

A couple of other notes about the restaurant are in order. The nightly specials are usually well worth the detour off the regular menu. And make sure you peruse the wonderful boutiquey wine list, which offers some great wines both by the glass and by the bottle.

Chloe offers artisan chocolates, cheeses and makes a big deal out of simple things like tea and coffee. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, so go early and often as it’s already become the gathering place for gourmets, artists and bon vivants.

— Terryl Gavre


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