Patrizio Sacchetto, executive chef at The Cosmopolitan Restaurant in Plaza del Posada, holds a large margarita and a plate of ‘Croqueta de Cangrejos,’ or crab cakes. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

I have lived in San Diego for nearly 20 years — long enough (by Southern California standards) to call myself a local. Yet I have probably been to Old Town less than a handful of times in all those years, reserving it for the tourists, I guess. So I could visit the newly opened Plaza del Pasado, located at Old Town San Diego State Park, with new eyes and ears, and without preconceived notions.

Of course, I went in knowing that the eight (soon to be 11) new shops, three restaurants, a soon to open tapas bar and panaderia are all operated by the big daddy of concessionaires, Delaware North.

And I knew that the selection of such a large firm to run an area previously known for its quaint shops and family-run restaurants had caused a great deal of controversy. I know this because it was pounded into my head by the media for months when complete bedlam seemed to break out over the former tenant, Bazaar del Mundo, losing the lease. And yes, I also know very well that Delaware North is the concessionaire for Petco Park. Hmmm, I know they have learned to cook a hotdog, but I wondered if they were going to try to pass off those ballpark nachos as Mexican food. I hoped not.

Delaware North took painstaking care in keeping not only the retail stores but the restaurants as authentic as possible. It worked quickly to create a fun, historic atmosphere where visitors can journey through San Diego’s past from 1821-1872. This meant special attention to details like the materials used to make signs in the plaza and the look of the trash receptacles. Even the style and types of chairs used in the restaurants had to be approved by the state as authentic. The result is a mixed blessing; the wooden barrel trash cans are lovely and blend in beautifully with the landscaping, but some of the tables and chairs in the restaurants are downright uncomfortable, something that I was assured management was aware of and working on to remedy.

When visiting the retail stores, visitors will find the operator is complying with state requirements by stocking only merchandise that reflects the historic period of the park. So no key chains, magnets or snow-filled globes.

A few of the standout shops include Casa de Moreno-Marron, which showcases specialty jewelry and unique gifts similar to those thought purchased by the wealthier residents of the period, and Casa de Serrano, which specializes in household items made of the earth and adapted for modern use. (By that I mean some of the dinnerware is microwavable.) Items include a variety of handmade pots, wine carafes, vases, glazed dinnerware, majolica pottery, painted ceramics, clay talavera plates and platters.

One of the most delightful aspects of the plaza is the paper flower shop operated by Alma Corona. She has been making paper flowers and piñatas since she was 8 years old. Corona is the third generation in her family to do so as her grandmother taught her and her mother the craft. They are quite beautiful, and so is she.

Alma Corona, operator of a paper flower shop in Plaza del Pasado, has been making paper flowers and piñatas since she was 8 years old. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

When my tour of the retail shops was over, I was introduced to a very distinguished-looking fellow in a chef’s coat, Patrizio Sacchetto.

Born in Italy, he trained throughout Europe and Canada before coming to the U.S. Sacchetto is an alumnus of some of the top hotels and restaurants in the world. He was executive chef at the infamous Rex Ristorante in Los Angeles during its ‘80s heyday and taught for several years at the California Culinary Academy before accepting the position as executive chef with Delaware North at Plaza del Posada.

At this point, I’m starting to worry less about the nachos.

The first of three new restaurants in the Plaza Del Pasado, and considered to be their fine dining restaurant, The Cosmopolitan Restaurant occupies the former Casa de Bandini space. It is much more streamlined than the Bandini space and after some minor seating and elevation changes, everyone now has a nice view of the famous fountain in the center of the patio dining area.

The Cosmopolitan offers menu items similar to those of a grand dining establishment in the 1830-50s. Some of the dishes, those denoted with an asterisk, are derived from historic Rancho California recipes. The “Tradicional de Albondigas Sopa” is one such dish. A classic meatball soup with chayote, turnips, potatoes, onions and tomatoes, it is seasoned with cumin and oregano and garnished with mint leaves. Chef Sacchetto’s version is authentic and wonderful.

The Queso Fundido at The Cosmopolitan Restaurant is a good starter dish. (photo/Terryl Gavre)

A couple of good starter selections are the “Croqueta de Cangrejos” (crab cakes) and the “Queso Fundido” (pot of cheese). The crab cakes are accompanied by a small bed of greens dressed in a light cilantro vinaigrette and garnished with a generous squirt of chipotle aioli. The Queso Fundido is a blend of Monterey Jack, asadero and goat cheese combined with roasted poblano chile and Spanish chorizo. It arrives bubbling hot in a cast iron skillet with warm flour tortillas.

The Cosmopolitan offers a wide variety of entrées ranging from carnitas and enchiladas to seared salmon and sautéed chicken with chipotle sauce.

Jolly Boy Restaurant and Saloon (the former Rancho el Nopal) is named after the original pub, The Jolly Boy Saloon, which occupied the exact same space in 1854. In addition to Mexican fare, the menu represents the fishing trade of the new port of San Diego in the mid 1850’s so you will find plenty of fresh seafood dishes on the menu.

Casa de Reyes (formerly the Casa de Pico) offers a lovely patio overlooking the Plaza del Pasado for outdoor dining. The menu is inspired by the lifestyle of the early Californios who lived by the campfire and ate simple grilled meats with beans and tortillas. While the menu at Jolly Boy features fish and seafood, the menu at Casa De Reyes focuses on grilled meats, steaks and many varieties of meat dishes.

It’s worth noting that if you dine at more than one of the park’s new restaurants you will notice that although they specialize in different cuisines from different historical periods, there is a similarity at all the restaurants in the menu “filler dishes.” For instance, the “Enchiladas Suizas” are the same recipe and presentation at all three restaurants as are the refried beans, rice, and some of the soups. I do know that they have big plans in the works and as time goes on and Delaware North continues to evolve the Plaza del Pasado and its restaurants, you will see many wonderful improvements, like handmade on-the-property tortillas.

On a final note: I am also happy to report that although it is admittedly not a traditional Mexican dish, they did put “Nachos del Sol” on two out of the three restaurants’ menus and that they do not come in a paper bowl. Housemade chips are loaded with beans, chorizo, jack cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole, sour cream and fresh sliced jalapeños. Fantastico!