One Downtown constant throughout the years has been the power lunch scene at Dobson’s Bar & Restaurant. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Although I had lived in San Diego for nearly five years, it wasn’t until I took a job at a Downtown restaurant and bar that I ever even had the notion to go Downtown. After all, what more does a 25-year-old need than Pacific Beach?

It was a cocktail position at B Street Bar and Grill (OK, go ahead and do the math) that brought me Downtown in a spandex dress and cheap shoes every night. By five o’clock there would be a block-long line of up-and-coming legal eagles, junior partners and businesswomen (wearing pastel-colored suits with gold buttons and shoulder pads, no less). Hollis Gentry and Neon played “Lights Out Jazz” while yuppies mingled and exchanged phone numbers. There I met and began what became an almost 10-year relationship with a man merely because he was a good tipper and had good taste in ties. What a difference, being twenty-something.

Now that we’ve set the scene, it’s all starting to come back to many of you, isn’t it? In those days of $1.75 well drinks and a new shooter called “Sex on the Beach,” there were only a handful of brave restaurateurs making a living Downtown: Paul Dobson, Mary Pappas, Ingrid Croce and Laurel and Paddy Rainwater.

Paul Dobson is one of the few Downtown restaurateurs who has survived the twists and turns of the marketplace.

Many others tried and sadly went out — some really talented folks too. Both Pacifica Grill (on Kettner) and Lori Woodside’s charming 515 (Fifth Ave.) were definitely ahead of their time.

There’s not a foodie over 40 who doesn’t still talk about wunder-chef Gunther Emathinger’s Falco Restaurant. Unfortunately, it only had about a two-year run; Emathinger’s problem was that he was just too good. Foolishly, at least from a financial point, he made everything from scratch — his breads, his sausages (remember that duck strudel and his wild rice and rabbit risotto?). The Downtown market could not support that level of quality and Emathinger would not compromise on product or method.

Along came The Paladion, another too- early bird, offering top-notch retail stores and restaurants, all under a grand marble roof. Bice, the New York-based, Adam Tihany-designed, sleek and sexy restaurant to the stars was located on the top floor. I can still taste that lobster risotto and gnocchi with Gorgonzola. Less than five years later, all that could be said was, as the song goes, “another one bites the dust.”

In 1989, Michael McGeath and a host of partners opened Fio’s Cucina on the corner of Fifth Avenue and F Street across the street from Ingrid Croce’s already established Croce’s Restaurant and Bar. The synergy between the two was evident and they both flourished.

I don’t remember why, but in 1990 I somehow got invited to the opening party for Wolfgang Puck’s “new concept” brewery-restaurant in Los Angeles called Eureka. Rumors had been circulating around San Diego that he had come down and talked to the people at the U.S. Grant Hotel about taking over the Grant Grill. That evening, after a couple of glasses of wine, I asked him if he was really coming to San Diego. With a very surprised look he said, “Well, I like San Diego very much but I don’t think it’s ever going to be a real restaurant town, at least not for 10 or 15 years.” My escort, who apparently had imbibed more than I, piped in and told Puck “Well, she’s opening a restaurant there in a few months.” I quickly discounted it by saying, “Don’t worry, it’s only breakfast and lunch.” (Because I was still on the fence about the dinner thing anyway, I felt I wasn’t being too disingenuous.) Incidentally, Eureka closed less than two years later. I still have my autographed menu, though.

Morton’s features garlicky Shrimp Alexander. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

It’s been slightly more than 15 years since “King” Puck’s prognostication and, as it turns out, the damn guy was right on the money regarding San Diego’s fine dining scene. The early 1990s were rather bleak Downtown restaurant-wise (except for a little waffle shop that opened in 1991 and is still churning them out), and it was not until late in the decade when the scene started to dramatically change.

For one thing, David Cohn, who had been wildly successful with his Corvette Diner in Hillcrest, came Downtown and opened Dakota Grill and Spirits on the corner of Fifth Avenue and E Street, shifting the energy north a bit and also giving the implied “It’s OK” to others who were apprehensive about opening a restaurant in the urb.

Today, the geography of Downtown dining has grown to include the Gaslamp Quarter, Marina District and East Village, as well as Bankers Hill and Little Italy. The scene is hotter than ever and diners have many choices.

Starting with the East Village, look at what little Café Chloe has done. This charming French Bistro the size of a fine linen handkerchief has made a lot of noise on Ninth Avenue and F Street. Not only is it perpetually packed — the Bistro Salad is addicting — but it has received numerous mentions in national publications. How’s that for not being in “a restaurant city?”

The Palm in East Village

But what about meat, you ask? While Rainwater’s, the grandpappy of Downtown steakhouses and still the place for a power lunch, has been joined by a host of others, Morton’s was the first to settle in — love the garlicky Shrimp Alexander — followed by the indie Greystone. Now all the chain-gangers are trying to take over the neighborhood. There’s Ruth’s Chris, Fleming’s, The Palm, and LG’s Steakhouse as well and a steakhouse that’s in its own class, The Gaslamp Strip Club, where do-it-yourself grilling and retro cocktails are popular with the younger set.

Five years ago I would bellyache that Fifth Avenue was overdone with Italian eateries; Fio’s was still going strong — the chicken and goat cheese pizza with pine nuts was a favorite — as were La Strada (great Osso Buco) and Osteria Panevino, to name just a few. Now the game seems to be “Fusion” fare as well as ethnic offerings. Today Downtown offers almost any cuisine anyone could possible desire.

Three relatively new Thai restaurants have opened up Downtown. Rama, located on Fourth Avenue has a large dining room with an impressive floor-to-ceiling stone waterfall; it’s great for large parties and banquets. Then there’s Lotus Thai on Market and The Royal Thai on Fifth, which both serve excellent authentic fare.

Although Downtown still lacks a “good” good ol’ chips-n-salsa, nachos and guacamole, refried beans and burrito style Mexican restaurant, there are some “more refined” choices for Mexican cuisine that I have come to love. The Lime is a darling little hole-in-the wall with terrific interior design and food that is equally spot-on. It’s operated by Maria Viscuso, the gal behind The Grape, an equally well-done wine bar a few stores up on Fifth Avenue. Candelas, over on Third Avenue and J Street offers the high style, haute cuisine of Mexico City and can lay claim to one of the best black bean soups I’ve ever gobbled down. Equally sublime is the “Calamares Candelas,” tender calamari stuffed with rice, onion, chiles and tomato served with a tomato and blue cheese sauce. Tesoro Restaurante and Taberna, located on Fifth Avenue in a sexy two-story space, is a newcomer worth watching. Do try the “Tarta de Rajas,” a dish with which the chef takes rich, traditional rajas to new heights by layering them between rounds of puffed pastry. It’s sort of a savory Napoleon.

Mr. Tiki’s Mai Tai Lounge is a fun spot for some coconut shrimp, a Pu-pu platter and an oversized flaming rum drink. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

When I feel like shaking my coconut shells, I head for Mr. Tiki’s Mai Tai Lounge. After a long run, Fio’s closed and David and Lesley Cohn took over the landmark corner. An updated interpretation of the old Polynesian-style restaurant so popular in the ‘60s and ‘70s, this Trader Vic-ish hangout is a fun spot for some coconut shrimp, a Pu-pu platter and an oversized flaming rum drink.

Downtown is teeming with seafood options these days too. Blue Point Coastal Cuisine had the market cornered when it came to fine fish until it was joined by Ostera the Fish House, which is notable for its front-and-center, two-story wine rack featuring fetching “wine angels” who retrieve your bottle for you while dangling from a rope and pulley system. The most recent player on the scene, Oceanaire Seafood Room, an upscale version of an East Coast fish house, has garnered praise for its sumptuous fresh “Seafood Tower.” All three offer well-prepared seafood specialties, each in their own style.

When I’m feeling like a hipster, I put on my all-black uniform and saunter into CHIVE to chill. This modern restaurant has contemporary cuisine and a very London-ish feel. By that I mean it is well-designed with sleek, clean lines and great lighting, and is usually filled with sophisticates (like me in all black).

Dobson’s is still my favorite for a pre- or post-show dinner. And that’s not just because of its location around the corner from the Spreckels Theatre. I’ll also belly up to the bar every chance I can get for a bowl of that famous mussel bisque. Rich, creamy and chock-full of mussels, it’s one of those dishes that you wake up in the morning craving.

Red Pearl Kitchen opened to rave reviews.

Opened just over a month now to rave reviews is Red Pearl Kitchen. This sexy spot offering modern Chinese food is owned and operated by Tim and Liza Goodell, the duo behind hot-spot Meson G on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles and Aubergine in Newport Beach. It’s definitely a sign that San Diego has come up in the eyes of the rest of the culinary country when big-city operators pitch their stakes here.

Also let’s not forget that coming soon is the Hard Rock Hotel with its own collection of restaurants, including a bar venue by none other than Rande Gerber’s company, Midnight Oil. He’s famous for his ultra-hot bars like The Whiskey in New York and Las Vegas and Whiskey Blue in Los Angeles.

Wolfy, we’re ready. Where are you?