Edition: August 2006



 Dishing It Out

 By Terryl Gavre



The Upscale And Clubby Food Scene
Blackhorse Grill changes hands
while urban 30-Two offers private chic

Late last month, Carl Schroeder and a group of investors took over Sami Ladeki’s Blackhorse Grill in Del Mar. Quick refresher: this is the space made famous in the ‘90s when it was Cilantro’s operated by Brad and Wendy Evarts. (Ah yes, that place, you say.) Ladeki took over in 2001 and presented Prime 10 Steakhouse and then reconcepted it in 2004 as Blackhorse Grill.

Schroeder took over the lease on July 18, the eve of opening day at the track — that was a hornet’s nest to walk into — and is operating for the time being as Blackhorse Grill. He is slowly changing the menu over to his vision of “casual California eclectic” fare and will officially change the name once the menu is completely his cookery. Blackhorse Grill executive chef Ryan Johnston stayed on during the transition before being relocated to another restaurant in The Ladeki Group.

Some have asked if Ladeki (famous for his Sammy’s Woodfired Pizza chain) is throwing in his hat on his upscale eateries. “No, I’m just taking some time to concentrate on opening and refining my pizza restaurants,” says Ladeki. “I think Carl is an extremely talented guy, he has a great following and I believe he is going to do very well there.”

***

Have you been to Lei Restaurant and Lounge yet? This upscale eatery with billowy white curtains, private cabanas with flat screen monitors to dine in, a laid-back crowd and by all reports “kick-ass” food opened recently on Park Boulevard in University Heights. The tapas menu (small plates made for sharing) offers a blend of Pan-Asian, Caribbean and Hawaiian fare from executive chef Tom Deeney. Global offerings — more at leilounge.com — include lobster dumplings, pistachio-crusted mahi mahi and wasabi mashed potatoes. The owners are Michael Mack, and brothers Billy and Michael Weiss. The Weiss brothers also own the popular Bourbon Street Bar next door.

***

Chef shuffle: Andreas Nieto is the new exec at The Grant Grill. The U.S. Grant is in the finishing stages of a $52 million renovation and plans to reopen in November. Nieto has served as executive chef at the St. Regis Century Plaza Hotel in Los Angeles and the Beverly Hills Hotel. Matthew Zappoli is no longer at FRESH in La Jolla; no word yet where he has landed. Brian O’Connor has joined Laurel Restaurant as executive chef, replacing Fabrice Poigin, who left to pursue other projects early this year. He was most recently chef de cuisine at Madison Park Café in Seattle. Ted Witte, formerly at Bernini’s Bistro in La Jolla, has been newly appointed to the position of executive chef at Kensington Grill. Joseph Magnanelli is the new point man at CHIVE. He is the former executive sous chef at Bertrand at Mister A’s.

***

Matt Rimel, owner of three of my favorite eateries (Zenbu, Mesquite and Rimel’s Rotisserie) has created a new venture, Ocean Giant, a fresh fish distributing company. Rimel oversees six fishing boats based off the Kona Coast in Hawaii and is pledging chefs anywhere in the country fresh fish from Hawaiian waters to their kitchens in less than 24 hours. His boutique fish company already supplies fish to some of our trendiest restaurants, including Matsuhisa in Aspen.

***

The owner of Rama and Celadon Restaurant has created a private, members-only lounge for the “utmost in urban luxury.” 30-Two is an indoor/outdoor clubby Asian-inspired elegant lounge with high ceilings, waterfalls and oversized custom built couches. Located at 327 Fourth Ave., it is directly in front of the Rama Restaurant dining room. Membership includes discounted bottle prices, access to a town car service, concierge services and first-rate tickets to concerts and events in San Diego. Executive chef Jeffrey Roberto has created a special sushi concept for the venue that he calls “Thai Infused Sushi” where he takes traditional sushi bar offerings and incorporates Thai elements such as fresh ginger, mint shallots and soy.

Members will also be invited to take advantage of the “Omikasa Chef’s Table” where guests will dine at a special table on a chef’s-choice multi-course meal. For more information about membership, go to 30-two.com.

Terryl Gavre believes the world would be a better place if everyone worked once as a foodserver. She is owner of Café 222, Downtown, and can be reached at (619) 233-4060, Ext. 316, or terryl@sandiegometro.com.


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