Orlando Lautino, manager of Voyage Restaurant and Bar, holds the ‘Miso Roasted Scallops’ ($17.50) and ‘Beef Bourguignon’ ($15.50). (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

A few years ago it would have been preposterous to think that anyone would even consider opening anything other than an Italian restaurant in Little Italy. But now, with Little Italy becoming a major Downtown residential district, it is sensible to think that the locals, at least, would enjoy a bit of culinary “venturing out.” After all, how many nights in a row can one eat Italian?

A little over a year ago, a very interesting dining option arrived: Voyage Restaurant and Bar. It is located toward the north end of India Street in the space formerly known as Gargoyle Gallery and Café.

Although its Web site describes the cuisine as “Italian-French Fusion,” Asian and Creole dishes appear on the menu as well. The décor is eclectic too: Tibetan rugs and Moroccan mirrors hang on pumpkin-colored walls, tables covered in brown paper meet dark wooden chairs and antique luggage, neatly stacked on shelves.

When I first looked at the menu I thought to myself that there’s no way they can do all of this food well. Escargot, firecracker shrimp, chicken cordon bleu, and baby back ribs? This is all over the map.

I decided to order food from all over the menu and give the chef a run for his money. I started with the “Escargot a la Catalane” ($8.75) and the “Appetizer Assortment Plate” ($13.75). The escargot was not nearly salty or garlicky enough for me, but I absolutely loved the kung pao calamari on the combo plate. Tender strips were coated in a fiery-sweet sauce and served with a kimchee style salad. Also on the plate were avocado spring rolls and the chef’s version of firecracker shrimp, wrapped in a wonton skin, skewered, flash-fried and served with a sweet dipping sauce.

Moving on, I sampled the “Lobster Bisque” ($8) and the “Mediterranean Salad” ($9.95). The not-too-thick bisque was richly flavored and served with a crisp crouton topped with a lobster meat rouille and finished with a swirl of chive oil. It was a delicious soup and I took full advantage of every last drop by cleaning my bowl with chewy French bread. I rolled my eyes in disbelief after my first bite of the Mediterranean Salad: this damn thing was good too. Baby greens, tomatoes, feta, cukes and red onion in a light vinaigrette. I kept waiting for a big crash, but so far nearly all of my dishes had been wonderful.

For entrées, I went just about as far apart as one could go: “Miso Roasted Scallops” ($17.50) and “Beef Bourguignon” ($15.50). The scallops were butterflied and served around a stack of fried potato wedges. The plate was finished with a sauce the menu described as a lemon Pinot Noir sauce. I didn’t get those flavors, I got more of a Béarnaise taste, but it was a nice sauce nonetheless. The scallops, though perfectly cooked, arrived to the table a bit on the cool side (probably having sat for a minute while the bourguignon was being plated) but their flavor was delicious. The bourguignon would have made Julia Child proud. It was prepared classically with carrots, potatoes and pearl onions and went beautifully with my Côtes du Rhone.

Desserts are all housemade. I had the apple tatin and it was as good as any I’ve had.

Voyage is an eclectic trip for sure, but one certainly worth taking.

— Terryl Gavre