Executive Chef Wade Hageman with ‘Untraditional Gumbo.’ (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Yes, San Diego foodies, Blanca finally opened. After what seemed like an interminable gut and remodel of the former bicycle shop at The Beachwalk Plaza in Solana Beach, the doors opened last month. Its debut drew swarms of curiosity-seeking diners, like me, all wondering if upscale dining could really be pulled off in a 20-year-old beach-city strip mall.

By upscale, I mean UP-scale. First of all, this is one of the sexiest dining rooms in the city. Akar Studios of Santa Monica created a visually sleek and sultry room. The focal point of the restaurant is a gorgeous, highly polished white concrete bar that runs the length of the room. The back-bar is illuminated with amber and gray-blue lighting, creating a dramatic, “silhouette-ish” backdrop to the lounge area. Without losing any “edginess,” things warm up in the dining room. Liberal use of billowy, light-colored fabrics and well-planned ambient lighting create a cozy feel and make one want to settle into the oversized booths for a long, relaxing dinner.

On both of my visits, the restaurant filled up late with well-dressed, well-tanned, apparently worry-free people. Either they hadn’t a care in the world or they had a very good dermatologist— these folks were smooth-skinned, late 40, early 50 somethings with thick pocket books and perfect teeth.

The chef, Wade Hageman, comes from the Michael Mina camp; he served as executive chef and sous chef for Mina at Aqua Restaurant in Las Vegas prior to his appointment at Blanca.

The menu is divided into four sections: “appetizers,” hot and cold, “fish and shellfish” and “meat, game and poultry.” Although there are only four to five selections in each category, selecting among them proves difficult since Hageman offers his guests a wide range of delicacies, few of which are easy to resist.

Starting “cold” you can choose from a well-done simple green salad with Pt. Reyes Blue Cheese, Blue Point Oysters with verjus mignonette or Osetra Caviar with all the trimmings.

From the “hot side,” The “Oregon Morel” Soup ($12) was a standout. This woodsy, earthy (two different things in my book) and creamy soup is simply decadent. It is finished with “melted” leeks, chives, thyme oil and a dollop of whipped crème fraiche.

I also loved the “Merlot-Braised Short Ribs” ($18). They were sticky-sweet, fall-off-the-bone tender and served over a rich red wine reduction. A garnish of organic watercress brought freshness while pickled pearl onions added a wonderful color and a touch of acidity.

For a middle course we shared the “Untraditional Gumbo” ($39). This was one of my favorite dishes; it was so clever and delicious. The chef takes all of the traditional components of gumbo and serves it “deconstructed.” A petite (maybe 3 ounce) Maine lobster tail is grilled and served with shrimp, scallops and lightly battered and deep-fried okra, all have been seasoned with gumbo file powder. The dish is finished when a richly flavored, buttery broth is poured around the bottom of the shallow serving bowl.

The “Day Boat Diver Scallops” ($34) disappointed just a bit. Four jumbo scallops were served pan-seared and served over what was supposed to be a “crispy potato gratin.” The scallops were slightly overcooked and the potato was slightly undercooked. Although the menu stated it was finished with a Meyer lemon buerre blanc, I didn’t taste the lemon. There was a rather generous portion of caviar atop each scallop though – had this dish been executed spot-on, it would have been fabulous.

Halfway through the waiter’s description of the evening’s thoroughly enticing special – a petite filet mignon served over a spinach-topped brioche crowned with two whopping ounces of pan-seared foie gras – I cut him off and ordered it. Finished with a truffled Madeira demi-glace and a rich truffle béarnaise, all components were perfectly cooked. No he didn’t mention the $50 price tag, but then I have to admit, I didn’t ask. By the time the bill arrived, I was too relaxed (thanks to a couple glasses of wine) and too completely thrilled with my dinner to mind.

— Terryl Gavre