Subaru, a division of Japan’s Fuji Heavy Industries, manufactures its Outback in Indiana, using local and Japanese components. The design of the firm’s cars has always been a little quirky. They have boxer engines, which are flat with horizontally opposed cylinders, similar to the layout found in Porsche and older Volkswagen Beetles. This configuration allows the power train weight to be lower for better car handling. Subarus are all equipped with their popular and very effective all-wheel drive system.

The Outback wagon is popular in the Northern states where snow and ice are the norm during the winter months. Its snow and icy road capability is hard to find at this price in any other vehicle.

Subaru offers Outback models equipped with a 2.5 liter 4-cylinder, 173 hp engine, a 2.5 liter turbocharged 4-cylinder, 250 hp engine or a 3.0 liter V-6, 250 hp engine.

The wagon comes in eight different configurations, too many to describe in this column, the lowest priced being the 2.5i wagon for $24,795 to the highest priced 3.0R VDC wagon at $35,695. The test car was the 2.5xt Limited wagon, which with options had a sticker price of around $34,000. The $32,495, 3.0 R L.L.Bean Edition wagon looks outdoorsy chic with its L.L.Bean livery.

Subaru’s Outback is a master at multitasking.

Talk about multitasking. With the many outdoor accessories such as a roof rack with cargo basket, various bike carriers, kayak carrier, ski attachment, its highway performance, and its modest size and maneuverability for shopping around town, this vehicle can do about everything except NASCAR.

The xt wagon with the 2.5 liter turbocharged engine literally burns rubber when you hit the accelerator. What a rush, for this staid looking wagon. The handling and braking supported this grandpa racer without a hint of strain. All road conditions, in fact, are handled with consummate grace.

The quiet interior, smooth and powerful acceleration, the absolutely imperturbable all-wheel drive grip on all road surfaces, and the powerful 4-wheel disc braking make this vehicle very satisfying to drive.

Of course it’s not as big inside as the monster SUVs, it lacks the cachet of a Chevy Tahoe or a Range Rover, but at EPA estimates of 23/29 mpg city/highway for the 4-cylinder 19/25 for the turbo 4cylinder, and 19/26 for the 6-cylinder, it leaves some room in the wallet for food and shelter, and it is as sure-footed as a cat on snow and ice. It’s also got high crash safety ratings.

The warranty is 30,000 miles or 36 months with a power-train warranty of 60 months or 60,000 miles.

The list of options is extensive and different options are available for each of the 11 models. Some of the major options are 4-speed automatic transmission for $1,000 for 2.5i; 5-speed automatic transmission for $1,200 for 2.5xt; navigation system for $2,000; round cross bars for roof rack, $179; flat cross bars for roof rack, $140; heavy duty cargo basket for roof rack, $335; bike carrier attachment for roof rack, $155; two-piece bike carrier attachment for roof rack, $310; and subwoofer/amplifier for $287.

One can imagine the comfort and safety of this wagon in a blinding snowstorm, at night, on wet slushy slippery roads - the all-wheel drive, precise steering, ABS braking, and low center of gravity all working together to keep you out of trouble. At times like this, no amount of money is too much to bring you home safely to the comfort of your warm bed.

Although the top of the line L.L.Bean 3.0 R may seem expensive for a medium sized wagon, it is well below similarly equipped all-wheel drive SUVs. Value depends on what you need and expect from a car.

The interior of the Limited and the L.L.Bean models is up there with the luxury boys. The instruments are simple and easy to read, controls are intuitive, and the climate control system does its job whether it is snowing outside or cooking under the sun. One gets the feeling that the design of this car, in particular the crucial details, has been executed by someone who loves driving, loves luxury and loves the outdoors.

Some 12 years ago this automobile started as the Subaru Legacy with essentially the same shape, body and power train. It was however, a dull looking “grandpa car” with modest power but good manners. It is incredible what Subaru has done without any significant change to the basic concept. Clever marketing, innovative and attractive paint schemes, raised ground clearance and pumped up power plants have produced a modern marvel to compete with the best that others can offer in this category. This is a lesson about achieving success through design evolution.

With a consumer approval rating of 9.5 out of 10 in Car and Driver user ratings, Subaru continues to hit out of the park with this wagon.

Motoring since 1952, Austin Lynas has owned 55 cars and at one time raced mini-sedans in England. An aerospace engineer, he was instrumental in developing the anti-skid systems used in British military aircraft that preceded today’s ABS systems. Lynas can be reached by e-mail at austin@sandiegometro.com.