Jason Marcus, chef at Red Pearl Kitchen, with ‘Chili-Garlic Shrimp and Baby Corn.’ (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

You know the San Diego dining scene is getting pretty swanky when big-city operators decide to set up shop here. Tim and Liza Goodell, the duo behind Meson G on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles and Aubergine in Newport Beach, have opened Red Pearl Kitchen in the Gaslamp Quarter.

The space is modern, sleek and sexy. The walls are the color of a ripe red bell pepper, the dining room is mostly booths, long, dark and beautifully lit by drum-shaped pendant lamps that cast a beautiful amber glow. Add the ingenious use of Pebble Tec flooring and deep-chill house music to the mix and you’ll agree they’ve created an ambience of sophistication and sultriness. The atmosphere sets the stage for a terrific night of nibbling, whether on your companion’s ear or some of Red Pearl Kitchens many exotic dishes.

Starting with the Dim Sum, definitely try the “Vietnamese Shrimp Summer Rolls” ($6). Chilled shrimp, mint, shredded lettuce and carrot is rolled up in a rice paper wrap and served with a spicy peanut dipping sauce. This clean, refreshing starter is a perfect palate teaser. I’m a sucker for pork buns and the “Chinese Barbeque Pork Buns” ($6) here are terrific. Soft white bread-style dough is stuffed with shredded pork seasoned with a spicy barbecue sauce and steamed. They are served three to an order, but consume with caution: they are addictive.

Although the “Flash-Roasted Edamame” ($6) is listed as a side vegetable, order it as a starter because you don’t want to forget about them. The soybeans are seared in a hot wok, hit with a little sesame oil, salted and brought to the table smoking hot. You really shouldn’t miss them, and hey, what about these prices? Five, six and seven dollar starters — at these prices it’s easy to go overboard and order one of everything (like I did). But don’t worry, the heaviest thing on the menu is its Plexiglas cover.

For God’s sake everybody, forget about the lettuce wraps at P.F. Chang for a moment. There are other ways to make them. Here, shredded spicy and hoisin chicken is combined with mushrooms and sprouts and served with a wonderful banana chutney. Riding shotgun is tender butter lettuce for wrapping, which I love because it’s not so brittle and easily broken like the usual iceberg served in most preparations.

The “Cold Sesame King Crab Noodles” ($9) have a delicious flavor. Nutty soba noodles are tossed with chunks of King Crab, a slightly spicy peanut-sesame dressing and topped with black sesame seeds and red shiso microgreens. I especially liked the contrast of the cool temperature and hot flavors; they make your mouth water.

My hands-down favorite dish was the “Chili-Garlic Shrimp and Baby Corn” ($14). Miniature ears of corn, large shrimp and Chinese green beans are jacketed in a liberal dose of a sweet, smoky chili paste and quickly sautéed in a very hot wok with canola oil. The flavors are tremendous. You’ll find yourself craving this dish the next day — I promise.

Too often lately, my meals out seem to start strong with excellent appetizers and salads, but when it comes to the entrées, the place falls flat. But not here. Under the direction of executive chef Jason Marcus, each course seemed to be better than the last —and that’s no small feat.

The “Ginger-Scallion Scallops and Snow Peas” ($15) proved that point. Nearly three-quarters of a pound of good-sized diver scallops were perfectly seasoned and cooked along with snow peas in a super light, clean, fresh and pungent sauce. They are garnished with snow pea shoots, which bring a layer of crunch, a bright fresh flavor and again, contrasting coolness to the dish.

Until now, I had never, and I mean never had a decent dessert (other than a fortune cookie) in a Chinese restaurant. But Red Pearl corporate pastry chef Nicole Lindsay has put together a wonderful list of unique desserts cleverly titled “Happy Endings.” Even if you overdid it on dinner, do order the deliciously moist steamed banana cake with chai ice cream and jasmine caramel sauce. (Insert your own “Happy Ending” joke here; mine will just get edited out anyway.)

— Terryl Gavre