Chef William Bradley produces indulgent dishes such as Sea Scallops with Eggplant Puree, Dried Cherries and Pommery Mustard from his luxury Addison kitchen. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Venetian plastered walls in rich golden hues meet elaborately designed limestone and marble flooring. Graceful arches meet intricately carved stone columns and gorgeous fabrics meet crisp white tablecloths. Sound opulent? It’s difficult to find the words that would do justice to the interior design of this new fine dining venue.

The subject here is Addison, the recently opened (after much ado) dining room at the still-under-construction Grand Del Mar Resort and Spa in Carmel Valley. The restaurant is named for Addison Mizner, one of the country’s most notable architects whose unique Spanish/Mediterranean Revival style became the architectural signature of Florida.

In and around the restaurant industry, insiders have been talking for months about the opening of this over-the-top eatery. Word is management requires all staff to have regular manicures, fresh haircuts are “highly recommended” and staff are routinely subjected to written and oral testing of the food and wine “curriculum.”

Not a bad idea when you think about it. Sure beats nose rings and tattoos.

Executive Chef William Bradley is a perfect fit. He is handsome, impeccably groomed and runs a tight kitchen. And what a kitchen it is. Easily the most expensive galley south of Los Angeles, it is beautifully designed and staffed to the hilt with top-notch cooks in expensive jackets and shoes. Bradley, an alumnus of Azzura Point locally and of Mary Elaine’s at The Phoenician, has surrounded himself with talent to boot. Jack Fisher, famous in these parts, is the pastry chef and Jesse Rodriguez, formerly of Per Se in New York, is the sommelier.

The menu is succinct: only 10 selections reside on the evening menu. Under a one-word heading such as “Tomatoes,” “Prawns” or “Risotto” is a pithy description like “Toasted pine nuts, Parsley, Parmigiano-Reggiano.”

I have dined twice at Addison. Once I had the “Tasting Menu,” a six-course pre-designated menu ($95/$160 paired with wine) and once I ordered a la carte. Both times I had spectacular meals. The next time I dine there, I’ll probably do the tasting menu again — it’s a great value. Dishes from the tasting menu are smaller in portion so you are able to sample more cuisine in one evening. Since I like to try everything, this is a great option.

On the a la carte menu from the “pre course” list, I highly recommend the “Prawns” ($16) with white nectarines, lemon-lime jam and sweet garlic confit, and the “Risotto” ($15) with toasted pine nuts and plenty of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Both dishes came perfectly cooked and beautifully presented in over-sized bowls, and were deftly flavored.

Main course standouts were the “Braised Beef Short Ribs” from my first visit off the tasting menu, and the “Bass” ($35) with a bacon-lobster fricassee, arugula and preserved lemon from the a la carte menu.

Fisher’s desserts parallel Chef Bradley’s perfection. I found the “Brown Butter Cake” with spiced apples and olive oil gelato too delicious to share — my escort had to order his own.

If dinner at Addison were a Broadway play, the review headlines would probably read something like, “Two and a Half Hours of Jaw-Dropping Spectacle.”

Will San Diegans welcome it with open arms? Will this city support such opulence?

I hope so.

— Terryl Gavre