Café Chloe was one of several Downtown restaurants that chose the path less taken by opening in an off-beat location. (photo/lambertphoto.com)

Downtown has long boasted of being the most highly concentrated restaurant area in San Diego. In the old days all the action was on Fifth Avenue, but nowadays little urban eateries have sprung up all around, making it a mega-mecca for foodies. Sure, sure, with all the new housing, the big chain restaurants will surely follow. But what gives a city its essence and dining reputation are the independently owned places where the menu and ambience are as important as the people who operate them.

A few years ago it was Jason Siebert who took the plunge and opened his Café Cerise all the way up on Sixth Avenue. Remember all the talk of how brave he was? Last year Café Chloe proved that, yes, there is life for a restaurant beyond Eighth Avenue, and this year several other notable privately owned eateries have opened up on and off the beaten path. What’s so striking about the following trio is their diversity. San Diego’s finally getting that “big city” culinary scene it always wanted.

The Restaurant At Stingaree

The Stingaree has created a lot of buzz both for its diverse menu and pulsating nightclub. (photo/lambertphoto.com)

Stingaree, which opened about a year ago at the corner of Sixth and Island avenues, is a three-story nightclub, event center and restaurant. The trendy, well-designed dining room offers one of the very best spots for eating and people watching in the city. The prime tables for voyeurism are those that hunker up next to the windows where diners lucky enough to be on the inside look out to a full view of those still standing in the line outside trying to get in.

I know it sounds a bit cruel, but when I’m on the inside sometimes I just can’t help throwing my head back for an extra laugh and gesticulating to my dining companions about how good the food is (with raised eyebrows and a nod, of course) just to irritate the poor hipsters still stuck outside.

The crowd is young and trendy, although the dress is “club casual”; a girl wouldn’t be caught dead in there without her Seven jeans.

Executive Chef Antonio Friscia, who received accolades while at Alfiere Mediterranean Bistro, offers what he calls a “hybrid of cuisines.” Although the menu is nominally described as “seasonal French Italian,” the chef says he draws influences from an array of different cultures.

Don’t miss the rich “Royal Shellfish Bisque,” the juicy “Fire Roasted Prawns,” the decadent “Macaroni and Cheese” or the earthy “Porcini Dusted C-Bass.” Friscia comes from a family of fishmongers and his love for the fruits of the sea is clearly reflected in the menu. While living in Italy, he worked and studied under top culinary masters and also became accomplished at doughs, pasta making, rotisserie and grilling.

The Restaurant at Stingaree offers a “Bliss at Six” menu where many of the menu items are significantly discounted between 6 and 7:30 p.m.

Basic Urban Kitchen And Bar

Some training might be needed to find Basic Urban Kitchen and Bar in the East Village. Watch for the metal sign among a sea of warehouses. (photo/lambertphoto.com)

Downtown’s booming East Village is home to one “newbie” where less definitely means more. Basic Urban Kitchen and Bar opened this year without much ado. In fact, during its construction, I probably walked by and peered in the windows at least five times wondering what in the heck was going on. The space, which has been pegged “hard-edged” or “cold” by some, and “minimalist” by many, is truly Downtown’s anti-club. The sparsely furnished room has high ceilings, a concrete floor, clean lines and only a trace of color.

This no-frills corner hangout was handmade by its owner Jon Mangini. Originally from the East Coast and formerly in construction, Mangini worked with architect Graham Downes to create his vision of a bar that is industrial and edgy, yet still warm and inviting. Even with a few hard edges, Basic has a huge female following.

The one-page menu offers only one thing: pizza. Thin-crusted East Coast-style pies come in two varieties and toppings are sold separately. There’s the “Red Pie” (marinara) with and without mozzarella and the “White Pie” (Parmesan and garlic) with and without mozzarella. Additional toppings include mushrooms, roasted red peppers, eggplant and artichoke hearts, allowing you to pick and choose.

Basic offers a full bar and a large variety of bottled and draft beer to wash down your pie. Go early on game days and keep your eyes peeled when trying to locate it — the converted warehouse has only an inconspicuous metal sign distinguishing it from other warehouses in the area.

Masala Spices Of India

It would take two hands to count the number of restaurants that have loved and lost the cavernous two-story space on Fifth Avenue recently wooed and won by Masala. Thankfully, owner Rakesh “Rick” Popat, unlike some restaurateurs, doesn’t believe in a space being jinxed.

Popat, the proprietor of Monsoon and Blue Ginger — both Downtown diner favorites — took over the former Octopus Garden a few months back and after a beautiful (and expensive) remodel opened as Masala in April.

The space is pure drama: floor to ceiling beaded drapes, stage lighting and beautiful color add to the excitement of a diverse menu. Ashley Popat, Rakesh’s sister, who shares in the duty of managing all three restaurants, created many of the popular dishes.

“Tandoori Murgh” is the Popats’ take on the famously popular dish in which chicken is marinated in roasted garlic, yogurt, ginger and spices and then slowly, lovingly cooked in a clay oven, and it highlights the menu. Pardon the cliché, but there’s really no better way to say it: the meat is so tender it falls of the bone.

Another do-not-miss is the chef’s favorite, “Satrangi Bhutta,” corn curry with sweet chiles. “Satrangi” refers to the colors of the rainbow and this variegated dish is just as gorgeous to look at as it is to eat.

In Conclusion

Well, there you have it, a small sampling of the independent spirit that’s alive and thriving in 92101’s culinary community. I didn’t hit them all and I’m sure many of you have your favorites. Here’s my final tip: Share them. Your friends need the tips and the restaurants always, always need the business. This I know.