Eugenio Martignago, executive chef at Bistro West, with his sea bass dinner creation. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Bistro West in Carlsbad is from the creators of West Steak Seafood and Spirits. The two restaurants share the same parking lot and are part of the same development, which also features a gas station and mini mart (aptly named West Mart) and a small hotel (West Inn and Suites). That’s their name – and they are wearing it out, but I gotta give them credit: all of their business outlets are bustling.

The cuisine at Bistro West features contemporary versions of comfort food. The kitchens at both the bistro and the steakhouse are run by Executive Chef Eugenio Martignago who, prior to signing on with the West Company, was executive chef at Nick’s Fishmarket in Honolulu.

Since it had been touted as a casual, more affordable family restaurant, I was completely shocked when I walked in to find that it not only looks to be just as well designed as its fine-dining neighbor, but it is way over the top in terms of the construction. The space has a Craftsman feel with high-beamed ceilings and dark woods accented by brightly colored stained glass light fixtures. The booths that line the two side walls are upholstered with contemporary brown and blue fabric and the kitchen is obscured behind a pony wall and more stained glass. The dining room’s back wall features a floor-to-ceiling wine cooler that holds more than 700 bottles.

The eclectic menu is long — four pages, which is unusual these days because a more succinct menu makes it easier to control food costs. Martignago evidently runs a very tight ship.

Appetizers range from $5.25 for the "Baked Garlic Bread" to $10.95 for "Hawaiian Ahi Carpaccio." I opted for "Slow Roasted Pork Pot Stickers" ($8.95) and two of the three soup offerings for my starters. At $3.95 for a cup and $5.95 for a bowl, these are a steal. Both were stepped-up versions of your mother’s recipe. The "Chicken Noodle" is well seasoned, and chock full of fresh vegetables and moist, shredded white chicken meat. The chef does an equally strong version of ham and bean. A thick, salty, smoky broth with small, tender white beans—dang, this soup was almost as good as my grandmother’s.

Nearly a dozen salads are offered, with most coming in an entrée size as well for those who want to eat light. Martignago, a native of Italy, offers build-your-own individual pizzas as well as a large selection of pastas. I shared

an order of the "Spaghetti Amatriciana" ($11.95) for my middle course. Thick al dente spaghetti was lightly tossed in a tomato-based sauce with pancetta, onions, chili flakes, basil and flaked Parmesan.

The menu goes on to offer a large variety of burgers, sandwiches, panini, rotisserie selections and braised meats. I selected one entree from the "Bistro Entree" section of the menu, the "Chicken Pot Pie" ($13.95), and one from the "Classics" section, the "Homemade Meatloaf" ($14.95). The pot pie comes in a shallow bowl. Creamy potatoes, vegetables, wild mushrooms and chicken are sheltered under puffed pastry and baked. Piping hot and flavorful, this is the very definition of comfort food.

The thick cuts of meat loaf, wrapped in bacon before baked, are accompanied by an earthy smoked bacon and tomato sauce. It’s a nice dish that comes with a choice of side dishes. I went with the macaroni and cheese and creamed spinach to keep with my "country-themed" dinner.

Desserts are simple and rustic. Among the selections are a housemade cheesecake, an ice cream trio, a thick pastry shell filled with key lime and topped with whipped cream, a pecan pie served with caramel ice cream and an apple pie served with vanilla ice cream.

I dined at Bistro West in its first week and in its second month. Both times it was sold out. Reservations are recommended – duh.

— Terryl Gavre