“O” is for onion rings at Epazote, where Chef Tony DeLuca serves up the ribeye steak with your choice of sauce. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

To San Diego diners over 40, the name “Epazote” will likely ring a culinary bell. Remember “Lights Out Jazz with Art Good,” tri-colored chips with spicy salsa, premium margaritas in plastic shakers and leather-panted, heavily painted women in their early thirties “shakin’ what they got”?

Oh, those were the days. Or were they?

After a long run, the once popular, subsequently anachronistic Southwestern restaurant has made some major changes: a new concept, a change in scenery (no, they didn’t lose the ocean view) and a change in management.

As they say, change is good.

Owner Candice Sullivan, a good-looking, forward-thinking woman from Austin, Texas, who had the gumption and the good sense to make the much-needed changes, spearheaded the transformation. She also had the acumen to sign a management contract with restaurant veteran Kipp Downing (Pacifica Del Mar) to oversee the renovation and run the new restaurant.

Her first move — from chips to chops — was bold: create a steak house. It is a tough task in a segment dominated by highly successful big chains. Meat eaters also are notoriously loyal to their favorite restaurant. To compete, Sullivan and Downing, along with executive chef Chris Idso of Pacifica Del Mar and Epazote executive chef Tony De Luca, hit the road, sampling and researching steak houses as far away as Las Vegas. (Good work if you can get it, eh?)

Next, she took on the interior design. Sullivan enlisted well-known restaurant designer David Robinson to do a complete gut and remodel beginning with the removal of the rock wall. Epazote fans will no doubt remember the faux boulders that spanned the back wall of the restaurant from the hostess stand to the restrooms, trendy in the ’80s but tacky now. Sullivan’s decision to “tear down this wall” ended an era as surely as did Reagan’s 1987 Berlin speech. The new sleek and streamlined décor is well executed throughout the restaurant and the ocean terrace. Romantic booths for two are available for intimate diners to sit side by side and experience the 180-degree view of the ocean, while others can enjoy a corner fireplace. The entire terrace is covered with a seasonal removable awning, so the atmosphere is warm and cozy all winter long.

Executive chef Tony De Luca, formerly of Island Prime, executes a small but diverse menu. The “Hot Starters” list includes a very nicely done lobster bisque, fried calamari, shiitake-leek spring rolls and steak skewers. From the “Cold Starters,” one can choose among a house or wedge salad, a Caesar, beef carpaccio or a crabmeat and ahi tower. Appetizers range from $8 to $14.

For entrées, carnivores select from a list of “Epazote Cuts.” The 14-ounce center cut rib eye ($37), 12-ounce New York strip ($36) and 10-ounce filet ($45) are accompanied by sautéed broccollini and your choice of topping. De Luca offers a list of embellishments for your steak, including “Epazote Compounded Butter” (red wine, shallots, chive and parsley), a whole grain mustard sauce, a peppercorn demi or a traditional béarnaise.

A few specialties are available for those not in the mood for meat. The “Orange-Teriyaki Glazed Salmon” ($29), “Grilled Pacific Swordfish” ($30) and “Buffalo Bolognese Rigatoni” ($20) all are worthy dishes.

Desserts ($8) are housemade and include a wonderfully cushy angel food cake with fresh berries and Chantilly cream.

Epazote Oceanview Steakhouse serves lunch and dinner daily and brunch on Sunday. Sullivan has torn down the wall to deliver a fresh steak-lovers’ experience. Cross over and check it out.

— Terryl Gavre