Executive chef Aaron La Monica serves a fresh, tasty square meal at Delirio’s. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Although Delirio’s opened almost a year ago in the space made famous by Cindy Black in La Jolla’s Bird Rock neighborhood, it only recently has found its mojo. The change in momentum comes in large part from the addition of Aaron La Monica as executive chef. Foodies and those who follow the restaurant scene will remember La Monica from his days at The Lodge at Torrey Pines, Nine-Ten and Region. He has good lineage.

The concept is California/Mexican fusion combining fresh local ingredients and the vibrant flavors of Baja. Hired in March, La Monica not only has revamped the menu but also done his homework: reading, researching and experimenting with chilis and other south of the border ingredients. The work is paying off.

Delirio’s dining room is warmly decorated. The wooden chairs can be a bit clanky on the sand-cast floor, but that imperfection is tempered by the pale yellow walls, golden seat cushions and well-placed candles.

Another key ingredient in Delirio’s evolving success is its wine director, Jerome Astolfi. After spending a couple years in New York, the Marseille-born Astolfi came to San Diego to work at Nine-Ten. He moved on to wine director for the opening of Jack’s La Jolla and then became part of the opening team at Delirio’s. Astolfi’s worldly little wine list alone is worth a trip to this out-of-the-way eatery. (Yeah, I know it is a bit hard to get to, as there is no easy way to get in and out of Bird Rock, but trust me, the trek is well worth it.)

Before nibbling on a morsel, Chef La Monica already had me with his plateware. By the time my first appetizers were dropped off, I was enthralled. The “Tortilla Soup” ($6), rivaled my all-time favorite, served at Candelas. Not even one bit sweet, it had a wonderful, bright, smoky and slightly spicy taste and was garnished with deep-fried tortilla chards and queso fresco.

My companion had to take a phone call during the meal, which was his tough luck because I ate the entire serving of “Nancy’s Ceviche” ($9) while he was outside. Marinated and chilled bass is combined with a “granita” of mango, papaya, chilis, cucumber and tomato. It is served in a three-compartment dish with creamy avocado mousse and housemade tortilla rounds for scooping, dipping or, in my case, just piling.

Don’t miss the “Harissa Marinated Shrimp” ($10). Jumbo tail-on shrimp get jacketed in harissa and then grilled. Harissa is a paste made from dried red New Mexican chilis, garlic, cumin and cinnamon — so just from this description, you know you’re gonna like it.

La Monica does a “House Made Chorizo” ($9), which is reminiscent of his days at Region. Here, his perfectly spiced, tender, toothsome sausage is paired with a basted egg and Swiss chard. I couldn’t be crazier about this setup. The chard is spiced up with a little poblano, and the sausage and egg combo was clever and comforting.

My entrée, the “Duroc Pork Porterhouse” ($27) was marinated, perfectly cooked, incredibly tender and topped with a chunky ragout of stewed zucchini, achiote, jicama and grilled ramps. It was fine swine for sure.

Desserts are housemade, so do indulge.

For fans of Cindy Black, fear not. Your old fond memories will soon be replaced with new ones once you treat yourself to dinner at Delirio’s. Yes, you will spend a minute or two pointing out where the bar used to be, and so on, to your companion, but I bet, just like me, you’ll soon be smitten with what the Bird Rock restaurant has now become.

— Terryl Gavre