Edition: April 2008



 The Connection

 By Patrick Osio


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True Baja Tales
‘I knew this is where I wanted to be. I was home’

With all the media hoopla about the lack of personal security faced by American visitors in Baja, it occurred to me that none of the articles on the subject interviewed Americans and other foreigners living in the affected region.

What was their take on the situation?

Accompanied by documentary producer/director Hector Molina, my partner in TransBorder Communications, our film editor, Armando Maldonado, and camera/sound man, I took off to Baja to interview expatriates living there.

We interviewed 25 expatriates, mostly Americans, living along the Baja Pacific corridor. We started at Playas de Tijuana, less than a mile from the U.S. border, and finished at Baja Mar, about 50 miles from the border. The backgrounds were as diverse as one would find in any major city.

Melinda Bates was the White House social director during the eight years of the Clinton administration, becoming a good friend of Bill and Hillary Clinton. After her White House stint, she remained in Washington. One day in 2005 she saw a television report on the Baja coast, became fascinated, and told her boyfriend they had to check it out.

They visited Baja a few weeks later. “I found the region intriguing, but resistable,” says Bates. “After all, what kind of a nut changes her life in one visit. But then I was taken to a lovely house with a front patio overlooking the ocean and I knew this is where I wanted to be. I was home. I turned to my boyfriend and said, ‘I hope you move with me. If not, I’ll miss you.’” (He moved with her.) She is now writing a book about her White House years.

Bates says she felt safe in Baja and had no security or safety problems. After living in Washington, she says, she learned there are places not to visit, things not to do, and developed an awareness that became second nature. She brought those attributes with her to Mexico.

Bob Coleman, a Chicago native, retired first to Puerto Vallarta in the Mexican tropics, but he and his wife could not take its heat and humidity. So in summer 2005, they visited the Baja coast and purchased a penthouse with sweeping coastal and ocean views.

In Puerto Vallarta, says Coleman, the security is enviable. One can walk downtown and feel perfectly safe at any time of the day or night. In Baja, he has had no security problems. But he does take precautions. He doesn’t go into neighborhoods he is not familiar with, particularly at night, a precaution he took while living in the U.S.

Kathy Katz, a Hawaiian, attended college in Los Angeles and loved the atmosphere of the big city, but not its bigness. Seventeen years ago she found Baja, with its nearness to San Diego and Los Angeles, gave her the proximity to large cities while retaining the Hawaii beach atmosphere she grew up with. She sells real estate in Baja, which has her on the move along the entire Baja coast, but is not fearful for her safety. To the contrary. “I’ve had car problems and cars stop to help without expectation of payment or return of favor,” she says. “They simply do it because that is the way the majority of Mexicans are.”

John Godfrey, who owns the Palm Grill at Cantamar in Rosarito, a popular steak and watering hole for expatriates, has lived in various parts of Mexico and is one of the few I met who can speak good Spanish. He has been in business for several years without security problems.

Sharon Storey and Debbie Shine, who moved to Baja a few years ago and started an interior design service, also say they have not had security problems.

Ann Hines, a Canadian expatriate who founded the nonprofit United Society of Baja California, also expressed no concern for her safety and security, noting that she is constantly on the move from one place to another.

At Rene’s restaurant on the south fringe of Rosarito Beach, we met with a club of writers living in Baja. They expressed no fear for their personal safety.

I came away with the impression that while there is crime in Baja — sometimes serious— it is not much different than anywhere else. And with the added measures put into effect by local authorities in Tijuana, Rosarito and Ensenada, the crime rate for both major and minor offenses has dropped in the last few months.

What continues is the Mexican government’s war against organized crime — in particular drug and human smugglers and the kidnapping gangs in Tijuana. These encounters will probably continue to grab press attention in both the U.S. and Mexico.

Patrick Osio Jr. can be reached at posiojr@sandiegometro.com. The veteran consultant also has issued The Mexican Perspective, an intensive primer on business culture and protocol. Copies are available at hispanicvista.com/sales/book_sale.htm.


Story Comments

Finally someone has asked the people who should know about life down here. The people who live here are the authority on the security issues in Baja and yet thier voice had yet to be heard on the subject. The press has bashed the area and caused a horible situation for the little guys. the people who own taco shops and curio stands. Crime in Baja is no worse than in Southern California. We live here with our 5 year old Daughter and feel as safe as when we lived in California. I could ask for nothing more than the richness of the life we lead here on this beautiful coastline. As a surfer I enjoy one of the most wave-rich areas on the west coast with most days surfing alone or with just a few good old friends or newer Mexican amigos. My daughter attends an excellent bi-lingual private academy where her class size is limited to a perfect 15 students. She has two maestros; one Spanish one English. She is handled with a family oriented moral code by her teachers, coaches and administrators that is beyond anything that could be provided in the US. She has instruiction in tennis, equestrian, golf, soccer and swimming. All this comes to us at a fraction of the cost we would pay up north.

Posted by Larry French at 8:15am on 2008 April 09

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