Roseville chef Amy DiBiase and her scrumptious ‘Pork Cheeks.’ (photo/robhammerphotograhy.com)

The last gastronomic event in recent memory to take place in Point Loma was back in the early ’90s when Old Venice took over the dive bar next door and transformed it into its swanky sidebar. I know this because I marked it in my Daytimer as I did all such newsworthy current events.

Last month I made an entry on my iCal that read: “George’s place is open,” and then I texted my sweetie, “Will you take me to Roseville tonight?” Times have surely changed.

Proprietors George and Wendy Riffle run this cozy neighborhood eatery and you will find one or both of this lovely couple at the door nightly. George has been enjoying an illustrious career in hospitality. Prior to moving to the West Coast he served as general manager at the iconic Picholine in New York. He also did a stint as food and beverage director at The Royalton Hotel. Locally, he ran the dining room at (the original) Laurel for the last five years before Gary Parker sold it and then went on to consult and launch such hospitality hot spots as The Ivy, Blanca and the yet-to-open Crescent Heights.

At Roseville, George has teamed up with one of my favorite chefs in town, Amy Di Biase. The pair worked together at Laurel and then she went on to do a stretch at Baleen before reuniting at Roseville.

The restaurant took over the former Gaetano’s space near the corner of Rosecrans and Canon. George and Wendy did the interior design themselves and went for a comfortably elegant dining room. Rich fabrics in muted colors, high-backed booths and an exhibition kitchen set the stage for Di Biase’s delicate dishes.

To start, be sure and have the “Ricotta Gnudi”($16). Pronounced, nee-yoo-dee, (literally Italian for nude), think of a ravioli filling without the wrapper. A combination of ricotta, parmesan and eggs is pressed into a little pillow, dredged with flour and gently poached. Di Biase embellished these light, unctuous little savories with morel mushrooms, English peas, summer truffles and a beurre blanc — it’s a stellar dish.

Don’t miss the “Asparagus Salad” ($13). Sweet and tender stalks of baby asparagus along with watercress topped with pancetta and a poached egg are lolled around with a truffle vinaigrette. The result is a great version of the traditional “bistro salad” found on most French restaurant menus.

Choosing an entrée was hard as I almost always order duck confit when offered. Here I teetered between that and the “Braised Berkshire Pork Cheeks” ($25). I succumbed to the pork and it did not disappoint. Slightly salty, tender as all hell and just enough sweet from the orange-lavender honey glaze, it was an outstanding dish.

We also ordered the “Meyer Ranch Flat Iron Steak” ($24) with blue cheese butter. It was flavorful, perfectly cooked and served with rapini. I devoured it even though it was my escort’s entrée.

Di Biase offers a killer selection of sides including skinny frites, crème fraîche creamed spinach, and an “Orecchiette and Humboldt Fog Gratin” (a.k.a. mac & cheese) that are all worthy additions to the table. I suggest ordering a couple and sharing family style.

Nightly specials are offered. Monday is “Meyer Ranch Angus Beef Burgers” ($16), and I can’t wait to give one a try.

Desserts are housemade and worth saving room for.

I certainly hope it’s not another 15 years or 40 technological jumps forward before another noteworthy newbie jumps on the bandwagon in Point Loma.

— Terryl Gavre