Restaurant veterans Matt Gordon (above) and Scott Watkins opened Urban Solace after a year-long remodel. (photo/alandeckerphoto.com)

Urban Solace? Don’t worry, the name will grow on you. Just sink your teeth into one of Chef Matt Gordon’s flaky buttermilk biscuits slathered with sweet honey butter. As the bodacious biscuit melts in your mouth, you’ll be transported from horn-honking, busy North Park to a bench swing on a breezy veranda somewhere down South.

Now don’t get me wrong, this new urban eatery, seemingly no bigger than a Kleenex box, is not tranquil by any means. When concrete floors meet exposed brick walls and high ceilings, it makes for a lot of racket any ol’ time. And when the place is packed like a can of anchovies (as it was on my visit), it buzzes like a big city bistro. It is the menu’s “comfort cuisine,” the modern twists on dishes like potpie, chicken and dumplings and macaroni and cheese that take you “back home,” wherever that may be.

Restaurant veterans Gordon and Scott Watkins took over the former North Park Deli and Coffee space last year. After nearly a one-year remodel, Urban Solace opened in September as the newest member of North Park’s unofficial restaurant row.

Selecting dishes was difficult as the menu offers contemporary versions of so many of my childhood favorites. I started with a cup of “Creamy Tomato-Fennel Soup with Smoked Pepper Crème Fraîche” ($2.50). It was topped with a garlicky crouton and served in a cute little mason jar. Since tomatoes are out of season I had my doubts about it, but the soup was steaming hot, had great texture and super flavor. I’d love to come back in the summer and try it, what a blast for the ol’ taste buds.

The cheese biscuits are divine, priced at $4 for a basket of four and served with lovely orange-honey butter. While perusing the restaurant’s Website later I was happy to stumble across the recipe — no doubt I’ll be jonesin’ for them soon.

Although I really wanted the “Cinnamon Brined Center Cut Pork Chop” ($15.75), because it came with braised Swiss chard in shallot sauce and sweet corn spoon bread, I buckled down and made a tough decision and ordered the “Pulled Chicken and Buttermilk Dumplings” ($14.25). I just love dumplings, and these did not disappoint. Not the most beautiful dish on the menu (though what comfort food really is?), it was a gorgeous eat. Tender chicken pulled off the bone is served in viscous stew-like gravy with carrots, potatoes and parsley. Three to four nice-sized dumplings finished the dish. Perfect little feathery pillows to soak up all my gravy. I couldn’t have been happier.

I also indulged in the “White Cheddar Mac n’ Cheese” ($10.95).

It is marbled with bits of salty, smoky bacon and topped with toasted, buttery breadcrumbs. A nice dish, I only wish I’d had some crusty bread to wipe my plate clean.

Urban Solace also serves lunch Monday through Saturday until 5 p.m., offering several of its dinner entrées along with creative salads and great sandwiches. How great does a “Braised Beef Cheek Sloppy Joe” ($8.75) sound? Sandwiches are served with freshly made sweet potato fries and blue cheese dipping sauce.

Wait, there’s more. Chef Gordon does a mighty nice “Blue Grass Brunch” on Sundays. Selected entrees, salads and sandwiches join a creative lineup of breakfast dishes. Live bluegrass music is featured from 10:30 am to 2:30 pm.

For people like me, who find solace in the comfort food of old, we’ve got ourselves a hot new place to go.

— Terryl Gavre